Maƙala: Me Yasa Har yanzu Modeling Yana da Matsala Bambance-bambance

Anonim

Hotuna: Shutterstock.com

Idan ya zo ga duniyar ƙirar ƙira, bambancin ya yi nisa a cikin shekaru da yawa da suka gabata. Daga samfuran da ke kewayawa na launi zuwa tsararren masu girma dabam ko ba na binary, akwai ci gaba na gaskiya. Duk da haka, akwai sauran hanya mai nisa idan ana batun yin ƙirar ƙirar filin wasa. A lokacin bazara na 2017 lokacin titin jirgin sama, 27.9% na samfuran titin jirgin sun kasance samfuran launi, bisa ga rahoton bambancin ra'ayi na The Fashion Spot. Ya kasance haɓaka 2.5% daga kakar da ta gabata.

Kuma me yasa bambance-bambance a cikin yin samfuri ke da mahimmanci? Ma'auni da masana'antu suka kafa na iya yin tasiri mai tsanani ga 'yan mata matasa da ke aiki a matsayin samfuri. A matsayin wanda ya kafa Model Alliance. Sara Zif ya ce game da wani binciken ƙirar ƙira na 2017, "Sama da kashi 62 [na samfuran da aka zaɓa] sun ba da rahoton cewa an nemi su rage nauyi ko canza siffar su ko girman su ta hukumarsu ko wani a cikin masana'antar." Canjin ra'ayi game da hoton jiki zai iya taimakawa wajen inganta masana'antu don samfurori da kuma 'yan mata masu ban sha'awa suna kallon hotuna.

Maƙala: Me Yasa Har yanzu Modeling Yana da Matsala Bambance-bambance

Baƙaƙen Model & Diversity

Ɗayan sashe na ƙirar ƙira wanda ya inganta shine simintin simintin ƙirar launi. Idan ya zo ga ƙirar baƙar fata, akwai da yawa akan taurarin tashi. Sunaye kamar Iman Hammam, Linesy Montero kuma Adwoa Aboah sun dauki hankula a lokutan baya. Duk da haka, wanda zai iya lura cewa yawancin waɗannan samfurori sun fi sauƙi a launin fata. Duk da yake yin amfani da ƙarin nau'ikan launi shine abin yabawa, gaskiyar ta kasance cewa mata baƙar fata suna zuwa da launuka iri-iri.

Hakanan ana iya samun batun tokenism a cikin masana'antar. Kamar yadda wani darektan simintin gyare-gyaren da ba a bayyana ba ya gaya wa Glossy a cikin 2017, yana farawa da adadin nau'ikan launi da ake da su. “Alal misali, wasu hukumomin yin tallan kayan kawa suna da wasu ƙabilun ƙabilun a kan allon su don farawa da su, kuma fakitin nunin satin su na iya samun ƙasa da haka. Yawanci sun ƙunshi, kamar, 'yan matan Ba'amurke biyu zuwa uku, ɗayan Asiya da 20 ko fiye da samfuran Caucasian. "

Chanel Iman Hakanan ya gaya wa The Times a cikin 2013 game da ma'amala da irin wannan magani. “Wasu lokuta na sami uzuri daga masu zanen kaya waɗanda suka gaya mini, ‘Mun riga mun sami yarinya baƙar fata guda ɗaya. Ba ma bukatar ku kuma.’ Na yi sanyin gwiwa sosai.”

Liu Wen a kan Vogue China Murfin Mayu 2017

Yunƙurin Samfuran Asiya

Yayin da kasar Sin ta zama babbar kasa a fannin tattalin arzikin duniya, da farko kun ga karuwa a tsarin gabashin Asiya. Daga 2008 zuwa 2011, samfurori irin su Liu Wen, Ming Xi kuma Su Shi ya yi tashin gwauron zabo a masana'antar. 'Yan matan sun sami manyan kamfen da kuma murfin manyan mujallu na zamani. Koyaya, yayin da shekaru suka ci gaba, yunƙurin ganin ƙarin fuskokin Asiya a cikin salon ya zama kamar yana raguwa.

A yawancin kasuwannin Asiya, samfuran da ke rufe mujallu ko bayyana a cikin yakin talla sune Caucasian. Bugu da ƙari, samfuran bleaching kuma sun shahara a wurare kamar China, Indiya da Japan. Tushen sha'awar fata mai kyau za a iya ɗaure su har ma da zamanin da da kuma tsarin aji mai tushe. Duk da haka, akwai wani abin damuwa game da ra'ayin yin amfani da sinadarai don canza launin fata a cikin 2017.

Kuma samfuran Kudancin Asiya masu launin duhu ko manyan siffofi kusan babu su a cikin masana'antar. A zahiri, lokacin da Vogue India ta buɗe murfin bikin cika shekaru 10 da tauraro Kendall Jenner , yawancin masu karatu sun yi amfani da kafofin watsa labarun don nuna rashin jin dadin su. Wani mai sharhi a shafin Instagram na mujallar ya rubuta: “Wannan dama ce ta gaske don bikin al'adun Indiya da gaske. Don nunawa mutanen Indiya. Ina fatan za ku yanke shawara mafi kyawu don ci gaba, don zama abin sha'awa ga mutanen Indiya. "

Ashley Graham yayi kama da sexy da ja don kamfen ɗin Swimsuits For All Baywatch

Samfuran Curvy & Plus-Size

Don fitowar ta na Yuni 2011, Vogue Italia ta ƙaddamar da fitowar sa mai lankwasa wanda ke nuna keɓantattun samfura masu girma. Rufin 'yan matan sun haɗa Tara Lynn, Candice Huffin kuma Robyn Lawley . Wannan ya nuna farkon samfuran masu lanƙwasa waɗanda ke ɗaukar kan masana'antar keɓewa. Kodayake ci gaba ya kasance a hankali, mun ga Ashley Graham ya saukar da murfin Wasannin Wasanni na 2016: Batun Swimsuit, wanda ke yin alama na farko tare da girman samfuri don ɗaukaka littafin. Haɗin samfuran curvy kamar Graham, Barbie Ferreira, Iskra Lawrence da sauransu suna ƙara zuwa motsi na baya-bayan nan a cikin ingancin jiki.

Duk da haka, ƙari-size samfurin har yanzu yana da matsala tare da bambancin. Baƙi, Latina da samfuran Asiya sun ɓace musamman daga babban labari. Wani batu da za a duba shi ne bambancin jiki. Yawancin nau'ikan nau'ikan da yawa suna da sifofin gilashin sa'a kuma suna da daidaito sosai. Kamar sautin fata, jiki yana zuwa da siffofi iri-iri kuma. Samfuran da ke da sifofin apple ko alamun shimfidawa na gani sau da yawa ba a sanya hannu ko kuma nuna su da fice. Bugu da ƙari, akwai kuma tambayar yin lakabi da ƙira mai lanƙwasa kamar haka.

Misali, a shekarar 2010. Myla Dalbesio An nuna shi azaman abin ƙira a cikin yaƙin neman zaɓe na Calvin Klein Underwear. A girman 10 US, mutane da yawa sun nuna cewa a gaskiya ba ta da girma. A al'adance, samfuran kayan kwalliya suna lakafta tare da girman tufafi azaman girman 14 da sama. Yayin don yin samfuri, kalmar ta ƙunshi girman 8 da sama.

Tare da wannan bambance-bambancen rikice-rikice, watakila shine dalilin da ya sa ƙirar curvier ke so Robyn Lawley kira ga masana'antu su sauke alamar ƙari-girma. "Da kaina, na ƙi kalmar' ƙari-size '," in ji Lawley a cikin 2014 hira da Cosmopolitan Ostiraliya. "Abin ba'a ne da wulakanci - yana sanya mata ƙasa kuma yana sanya musu lakabi."

Maƙala: Me Yasa Har yanzu Modeling Yana da Matsala Bambance-bambance

Samfuran Transgender

A cikin 'yan shekarun nan, transgender model kamar Hari Nef kuma Andreja Pejic sun buga haske. Sun yi kamfen don samfuran samfuran kamar Gucci, Makeup Forever da Kenneth Cole. Samfurin Brazil Lea T. ya yi aiki a matsayin fuskar Givenchy a lokacin Riccardo Tisci a cikin alamar. Abin lura duk da haka, nau'ikan launi na transgender sun ɓace sosai idan ya zo ga samfuran kayan zamani na yau da kullun.

Mun kuma ga samfuran transgender suna tafiya a Makon Kaya. Marc Jacobs ya nuna nau'ikan transgender guda uku a nunin bazara-hunturu 2017 yayin Makon Kaya na New York. Koyaya, a matsayin farfesa na Columbia Jack Halberstam ya ce game da abin da ya faru na baya-bayan nan a cikin wani labarin New York Times, “Yana da kyau cewa akwai ƙwayoyin cuta da ake iya gani a duniya, amma ya kamata mutum ya mai da hankali game da abin da ake nufi da hakan da kuma yin da’awar siyasa. Duk ganuwa baya kaiwa ga ci gaba. Wani lokacin gani ne kawai. "

Maƙala: Me Yasa Har yanzu Modeling Yana da Matsala Bambance-bambance

Fatan gaba

Lokacin da muka yi la'akari sosai kan masana'antar yin tallan kayan kawa da bambance-bambancen, dole ne mu yaba wa waɗanda ke cikin kasuwancin da suka samu daidai. Daga masu gyara mujallu zuwa masu zanen kaya, akwai manyan sanannun sunaye waɗanda ke neman ƙarin bambance-bambance. Daraktan wasan kwaikwayo James Scully ya dauki hoton Instagram a watan Maris don zargin alamar Faransa Lanvin da neman "kada a gabatar da mata masu launi". Scully ya kuma bayyana a cikin wata tattaunawa da Business of Fashion a cikin 2016 cewa mai daukar hoto ya ki harba samfurin saboda ta kasance baƙar fata.

Masu zane irin su Kirista Siriano kuma Olivier Rousteing na Balmain sukan jefa nau'ikan launuka a cikin nunin titin jirginsu ko kamfen. Kuma mujallu irin su Teen Vogue suma sun rungumi nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan tauraro. Hakanan muna iya ƙididdige samfuran kamar Jourdan Dun waɗanda ke magana game da abubuwan wariyar launin fata a cikin masana'antar. Dunn ya bayyana a cikin 2013 cewa wata farar kayan shafa ba ta son taba fuskarta saboda launin fatarta.

Hakanan zamu iya duba madadin hukumomin kamar Slay Model (waɗanda ke wakiltar samfuran transgender) da Anti-Agency (waɗanda ke alamun ƙira ba na al'ada ba) don ƙarin zaɓuɓɓuka daban-daban. Abu daya a bayyane yake. Domin bambance-bambance a cikin ƙirar ƙira don samun inganci, mutane suna buƙatar ci gaba da yin magana kuma a shirye su sami dama.

Kara karantawa