Ubweya unali chizindikiro kwa nthawi yayitali komanso ulemu. Koma pamene tikulowera m'zaka za zana la 21, zakhala zongopeka kuvala. Ndi nyumba zapamwamba zamafashoni monga Gucci posachedwapa akulengeza chisankho chosiya ubweya waubweya, kugwiritsa ntchito zikopa za nyama kukukhala zakale. Mitundu ina yamafashoni monga Armani, Hugo Boss ndi Ralph Lauren nawonso asiya ubweya waubweya m'zaka zaposachedwa.
Kulengeza kwa Gucci komwe kudachitika mu Okutobala 2017 kudayambitsa mitu yayikulu padziko lonse lapansi. "Gucci kukhala wopanda ubweya ndizosintha kwambiri. Kuti mphamvuyi ithetse kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa ubweya chifukwa cha nkhanza zomwe zikukhudzidwa zidzakhala ndi vuto lalikulu padziko lonse la mafashoni. Nyama zokwana 100 miliyoni pachaka zimavutitsidwabe ndi makampani opanga ubweya, koma zimenezo zingapitirirebe malinga ngati opanga ubweya akupitirizabe kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya ndi ogula, "anatero Kitty Block, pulezidenti wa Humane Society International.
Chifukwa chiyani Ubweya Silinso Chic
Ubweya ukusiya kutchuka pakati pa mitundu yapamwamba ndipo pali zinthu zingapo zofotokozera chifukwa chake. Magulu omenyera ufulu wa zinyama monga PETA ndi Respect for Animals akhala akukakamiza kuti malonda asiye kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya kwa zaka zambiri. "Tekinoloje tsopano ikupezeka zomwe zikutanthauza kuti simuyenera kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya," Mtsogoleri wamkulu wa Gucci Marco Bizzarri adauza Vogue. “Njira zina ndi zapamwamba. Palibe chifukwa. ”
Tiyeni tiwone zomwe Gucci adalengeza posachedwa. Mtunduwu udzakhala wopanda ubweya pofika nyengo ya masika 2018. Kwa zaka khumi zapitazi, kampaniyo yakhala ikugulitsa zikopa zopangira komanso zinthu zokhazikika. Momwemonso, Gucci igulitsa zinthu zake za ubweya wa nyama zomwe zatsala ndi ndalama zopita ku mabungwe omenyera ufulu wa nyama.
Chifukwa china chamitundu yambiri yamafashoni kuchoka kutali ndi ubweya imatha kulumikizidwa ndi ogula okha. Mukapita patsamba la Facebook kapena Twitter la mtundu womwe umagwiritsa ntchito ubweya kapena kuyesa zodzikongoletsera pa nyama, nthawi zambiri mumawona ogula akulemba ndemanga zosonyeza kukhumudwa kwawo. Kuphatikiza apo, kuyang'ana pa chilengedwe ndikofunikira kwambiri kwa ogula zakachikwi. Ndipo gululi akuti liwerengera oposa theka la makasitomala a Gucci.
Kodi Chinthu Chachikulu Chokhudza Ubweya ndi Chiyani?
Ngakhale kuti nyumba zambiri zamafashoni zimapangabe zinthu zachikopa, pali zifukwa zingapo zomwe ubweya umawoneka ngati mchitidwe wankhanza kwambiri. Nkhani yochokera mu nyuzipepala ya Sydney Morning Herald ikuti 85% ya ubweya wopangidwa padziko lonse lapansi umachitika chifukwa cha ulimi wafakitale. “Ndiye pali kupha. Njira zimasiyanasiyana kuchokera ku mpweya (ofala kwambiri ku EU) ndi jekeseni wakupha, kuthyola khosi, ndi electrocution yamphongo ndi pakamwa (yomwe imayambitsa matenda a mtima pamene nyama ikudziwa)," Herald's Clare Press inalemba.
Omenyera ufulu wa nyama komanso ogula okhudzidwa amakhala ndi zotsutsa zambiri kuposa momwe mafashoni amasinthira masitayelo aulere. Kugwiritsa ntchito kumeta ubweya, zikopa ndi ubweya akadali mfundo za mkangano waukulu kwa ena. Komabe, makampaniwa akutenga njira zomveka bwino kuti akhale okhazikika komanso osamala za nyama.
Stella McCartney, yemwe wakhala wopanda ubweya ndi zikopa kuyambira pachiyambi cha mtundu wake ali ndi izi ponena za tsogolo la mafashoni. “Ndikukhulupirira kuti zimene zidzachitika m’zaka 10, anthu adzayang’ana m’mbuyo pa mfundo yakuti tinapha mabiliyoni a nyama ndi kudula maekala mamiliyoni ambiri a nkhalango yamvula, ndi [kugwiritsira ntchito] madzi m’njira yosagwira ntchito bwino koposa—tingathe. tipitirize kukhala ndi moyo wotere, "adauza Vogue UK. “Ndiye ndikuyembekeza kuti anthu ayang’ana m’mbuyo ndi kunena kuti, ‘Zoonadi? Ndicho chimene iwo anachita kupanga peyala ya nsapato, mozama?’ Ngati muli ndi mwayi wokhala ndi bizinesi pa pulaneti lino, muyenera kuifikira mwanjira imeneyi [yokhazikika].”
Ndipo zowonadi zina mwazinthu zozizira kwambiri komanso zowoneka bwino zamafashoni zatenga njira zokhazikika. Yang'anani makampani monga Reformation, AwaveAwake, Maiyet ndi Dolores Haze omwe amagwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zokhazikika. Njira yawo yozindikira yawapezera ogula odzipereka.
Pambuyo pa Kuletsa Ubweya, Kodi Chotsatira Ndi Chiyani?
Pamene otsogola otsogola ayamba kupeŵa ubweya, mawonekedwe amakampaniwo apitilizabe kusintha. “Kodi ukuganiza kuti kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya wa ubweya masiku ano kukadali kwamakono? Sindikuganiza kuti akadali amakono ndipo ndicho chifukwa chake tinasankha kuti tisachite zimenezo. Zachikale pang'ono, "atero CEO wa Gucci Marco Bizzarri ku Business of Fashion. "Kupanga zinthu kumatha kudumpha mbali zosiyanasiyana m'malo mogwiritsa ntchito ubweya."
Ngakhale ma brand akuchulukirachulukira motsutsana ndi zinthu monga ubweya ndi zikopa, pakadali kufunikira kopanga. Ogula samangogula pa uthenga, ndi za kalembedwe akutero Stella McCartney. "Ndikuganiza kuti mafashoni amayenera kukhala osangalatsa komanso apamwamba komanso ofunikira, ndipo mutha kukhala ndi maloto kudzera mu zomwe tikupanga, koma mutha [kukhalanso] ndi malingaliro otetezeka omwe mukugwiritsa ntchito mosaganizira ... nthawi yosintha, ino ndi nthawi yoti tiwone zomwe zingachitike komanso momwe tekinoloje ingatipulumutse. ”