Imfa ya Karl Lagerfeld inagwedeza makampani opanga mafashoni ndipo inasiya aliyense padziko lapansi akumva chisoni. Ngakhale simunatsatire ntchito ya munthuyo mosamalitsa, mwachiwonekere mumasilira kapena kukhala ndi zidutswa zingapo zamitundu yomwe adabwereketsa maluso ake. Nyumba zamafashoni monga Tommy Hilfiger, Fendi, ndi Chanel zidakongoletsedwa ndi zidutswa zopangidwa ndi munthu uyu.
M'nkhaniyi, tiwona moyo wa wopanga uyu ndikupereka mwachidule zinthu zodabwitsa zomwe adathandizira kudziko la mafashoni. Ngakhale akamwalira, mapangidwe ake odziwika bwino adzakhalabe ndi moyo ndipo adzalimbikitsa okonza mafashoni atsopano omwe amalowa m'makampani. Adamwalira ku Paris pa February 19, 2019. Chifukwa cha imfa chidalengezedwa zovuta za khansa ya kapamba.
Moyo Woyambirira wa Karl Lagerfeld
Wobadwa Karl Otto Lagerfeld ku Hamburg, Germany, amakhulupirira kuti anabadwa pa September 10, 1933. Wopanga avant-garde sanaulule tsiku lake lenileni la kubadwa, kotero izi ndizongopeka. "T" idachotsedwa pa dzina lake pofuna kumveka bwino kwambiri pamakampani.Bambo ake anali wochita bizinesi wamkulu ndipo adapeza chuma chathanzi pobweretsa mkaka wosakanizidwa ku dziko la Germany. Karl ndi abale ake awiriwa, Thea ndi Martha, adakula olemera ndipo makolo awo adawalimbikitsa kuti azichita nawo zanzeru. Ankakambirana nkhani zazikulu monga filosofi ndi nyimbo mwina panthawi ya chakudya, makamaka poganizira kuti amayi awo anali woyimba violin.
Kuyambira ali wamng'ono pamene Lagerfeld adawonetsa kuyanjana kwa mafashoni ndi luso lojambula. Ali mnyamata, amadula zithunzi m'magazini a mafashoni, ndipo amadziwika kuti amatsutsa zomwe anzake akusukulu amavala tsiku lililonse. Ndipo m'zaka zaunyamata, Karl adalowa m'dziko losangalatsa komanso lamphamvu la mafashoni apamwamba.
Zoyambira Zokongola
Monga owonera masomphenya ambiri, adadziwa kuti tsogolo lake lidali kutali kwambiri ndi Hamburg, Germany. Anaganiza zosamukira kumalo kumene mafashoni ndi mfumu-Paris. Analandira chilolezo cha makolo ake komanso madalitso awo ndipo anapita ku Mzinda wotchuka wa Kuwala. Iye anali ndi zaka khumi ndi zinayi panthawiyo.
Anakhala kumeneko kwa zaka ziwiri zokha zaufupi pamene adapereka zojambula zake ndi zitsanzo za wotchi ya nsalu ku mpikisano wojambula. Nzosadabwitsa kuti adatenga malo oyamba m'gulu la malaya, ndipo adakumana ndi wopambana wina yemwe mungamudziwe dzina lake: Yves Saint Laurent.
Sipanapite nthawi yaitali kuti Lagerfeld wamng'ono akugwira ntchito nthawi zonse ndi wojambula wa ku France Balmain, kuyambira ngati wothandizira wamng'ono ndikukhala wophunzira wake. Udindowu unali wovuta mwakuthupi ndi m'maganizo, ndipo wamasomphenya wamng'onoyo anagwira ntchito mwakhama kwa zaka zitatu. Kenako, adagwira ntchito ndi nyumba ina ya mafashoni asanapange chisankho cholimba mtima chodziyendera yekha mu 1961.
Kupambana kwa Karl
Mwamwayi, koma n'zosadabwitsa kuti Karl anali ndi ntchito yambiri yoti achite komanso mapangidwe ake abwino. Amapanga zosonkhanitsa za nyumba monga Chloe, Fendi (iye adabweretsedwadi kuti ayang'anire kugawanika kwa ubweya wa kampani) ndi ena opanga mayina akuluakulu.
Adadziwika pakati pa atsogoleri amakampani komanso olowa mkati ngati munthu yemwe amatha kupanga komanso kupanga mapangidwe omwe adangochitika mwangozi komanso munthawi yake. Komabe, adapeza zatsopano kulikonse, misika yogulitsira zinthu komanso madiresi akale aukwati okwera njinga, kuwapanga kukhala chinthu chatsopano komanso chokongola kwambiri.
Zaka 80 ndi Kupitilira
M'zaka khumi zodziwika bwino za m'ma 80, Karl ankadziwika kuti ndi wotchuka kwambiri pamakampani opanga mafashoni. Ankakondedwa pakati pa mamembala a atolankhani, omwe adatsatira munthuyo ndikulemba moyo wake wamagulu ndi zokonda zosintha. Anasunga mabwenzi osangalatsa, m'modzi mwa odziwika kwambiri kukhala wojambula Andy Warhol.Iye adadzipangira mbiri yokhala "wopanga ganyu". Sangakhale ndi wopanga m'modzi kwa nthawi yayitali - adadziwika kuti amachoka palemba limodzi kupita kwina, kufalitsa talente yake pamakampani onse.
Iye adapanga mbiri yachipambano yomwe imayika mulingo wapamwamba kwambiri kwa opanga atsopano komanso odziwa zambiri omwe angafune. Cholemba Chanel chinapulumutsidwa ndi mwamunayo pamene adachita zomwe ochepa angaganizire adabweretsanso chizindikiro chomwe chinali pafupi kufa ku moyo wosangalatsa ndi gulu lokonzekera kuvala la mafashoni apamwamba.
Inalinso nthawi imeneyo pomwe Lagerfeld adapanga ndikukhazikitsa dzina lake, kudzoza kwake komwe adatcha "kugonana mwanzeru". Gawo loyambalo mwina lidachokera ku ubwana wake komwe nzeru zidalimbikitsidwa, ndipo womalizayo mwina adabwera chifukwa chowona mafashoni amitundu yonse panjira zowuluka padziko lonse lapansi mosiyanasiyana.
Chizindikirocho chinakula ndikukula, ndikupeza mbiri yokhala ndi luso losoka pamodzi ndi zidutswa zolimba zomwe zinali zokonzeka kuvala. Ogula amatha kusewera ma cardigans okongola, mwachitsanzo, opangidwa ndi mitundu yowala. Chizindikirocho chinagulitsidwa ku kampani yotchuka Tommy Hilfiger mu 2005.
Mofanana ndi ojambula ambiri otchuka, mafashoni sanali dziko lokhalo limene adawonetsera luso lake. Ntchito yake inadutsa muzojambula ndi mafilimu, ndipo anapitirizabe kugwira ntchito mwakhama ndikusunga ndondomeko yodzaza.
Munali mu 2011 kuti adapanga ma glassware a Orrefors ochokera ku Sweden, ndipo adasaina mgwirizano kuti apange mzere wa zovala za sitolo ya Macy. Anatero Lagerfeld mu July 2011, "Mgwirizanowu ndi mtundu woyesera momwe tingapangire zovala zamtundu uwu pamitengo yamtengo wapatali ... .”
Munali chaka chomwecho pamene adalandira Mphotho ya Gordon Parks Foundation ngati njira yozindikirira ntchito yake monga wojambula mafashoni, wojambula zithunzi, komanso wopanga mafilimu. Lagerfeld adayankha ulemu wapamwambawu ponena kuti, "Ndine wonyada, komanso wothokoza kwambiri, koma sindinathe." Anapitiliza kunena kuti adachita chidwi ndi zithunzi za Parks pomwe anali wophunzira.
Ndipo mwina koposa zonse, adatsegula sitolo yake ku Qatar mu 2015, zidutswa zodziwika bwino zomwe zidagulidwa.
Imfa ya Karl Lagerfeld
Mwamunayo atayandikira zaka zapakati pa 80, Lagerfeld adayamba kuchedwetsa ntchito yake. Ogwira ntchito m'mafakitale anali ndi nkhawa pomwe sanawonekere mpaka kumapeto kwa ziwonetsero zake zamafashoni ku Chanel ku Paris koyambirira kwa 2019, zomwe nyumbayo idachita kuti "atatopa".
Sipanapite nthawi yaitali kuchokera pamene anamwalira, pa February 19, 2019.
Kutchuka Kwambiri
Ngakhale pambuyo pa imfa yake, Karl Lagerfeld akadali pamutu pa dziko la mafashoni.
Ambiri ankadzifunsa kuti ndani amene angalandire chuma chamtengo wapatali cha $195 miliyoni cha wopanga. Yankho si wina koma Choupette, mphaka waku Birman yemwe Lagerfeld ankakonda kwambiri.
Choupette, mphaka wake, akunenedwa ndi NBC news kuti atenge zina mwa ndalamazi. Lagerfeld adanenapo kale kuti mphaka wake ndi "wolowa nyumba". "...Munthu amene adzamusamalira sadzavutika," adatero poyankhulana mu 2015.
Analemba ganyu antchito kuti azisamalira chiweto chake chokondedwa, ndipo adachiwona ngati ntchito yanthawi zonse. Choupette ankakhala moyo wapamwamba, ndipo lero ali ndi otsatira Instagram pafupifupi kotala miliyoni komanso otsatira 50,000 pa Twitter.
Izi sizikutanthauza kuti Choupette anali wopanda ndalama zake asanalandire cholowa. Mphaka wapeza ndalama zoposa $3 miliyoni chifukwa cha magigi osiyanasiyana. Awonjezera chuma chake chambiri!
Kusonkhanitsa komaliza
Panthawi yolemba izi, gulu lomaliza la Karl Lagerfeld la Chanel lidayamba. Adafotokozedwa ndi omwe adapezekapo kuti adalimbikitsidwa ndi tsiku labwino lachisanu lomwe amakhala m'mudzi wamtendere wamapiri ndipo adawonetsedwa 5 Marichi 2019.
Zosonkhanitsazo zimakhala ndi mapangidwe monga houndstooth, tartan, ndi macheke akuluakulu. Zitsanzozo zinayenda pakati pa chipale chofewa, atavala ma suti a tweed omwe ankatulutsa mpweya waumuna. Mathalauzawo anali odulidwa kwambiri ndipo ankavala m’chiuno, monga mmene anthu ambiri masiku ano amachitira ndi mathalauza ndi ma jeans. Zidutswazo zidakulitsidwa ndi zokometsera monga makolala aatali kapena makola a shawl, kapenanso ma capes ang'onoang'ono, ndipo amawonetsa zambiri ngati ma lapel a ubweya wabodza. Ma jekete a tweed adakonzedwa ndi ulusi wandiweyani, waubweya, wosiyidwa waiwisi kapena woluka.
Zina zinali ndi makolala oyaka. Panalinso ma pullover oluka omwe anali okulirapo komanso ofewa, ndipo majuzi otsetsereka amaperekedwa ndi zokongoletsera za kristalo. Panalinso ma cardigans omwe anali okongoletsedwa ndi zithunzi za mapiri okongola omwe amalimbikitsa. Zosonkhanitsazo zitha kufotokozedwa bwino ngati ukwati wokongola wamavalidwe a ski ndi mafashoni akutawuni. Zitsanzozi zidapangidwanso ndi zodzikongoletsera zazikulu, zina zomwe zidali ndi mawonekedwe odziwika bwino a Double C omwe ndi chizindikiro cha Chanel.
Karl Lagerfeld adzaphonyadi pankhani ya mafashoni. Komabe, kukumbukira kwake kudzakhalabebe ndipo adzakhala wolimbikitsa kwamuyaya zikafika kwa opanga atsopano komanso omwe akubwera. Zochita zake zidzakhaladi m'mabuku olembera. Imfa yake inali yomwe inabweretsa zowawa kwa ambiri, koma panthawi imodzimodziyo dziko la mafashoni linali ndi mwayi wokhala ndi luso lake.