Model extraordinaire Coco Rocha adayika pazithunzi zingapo za Vogue Italia, zokopa zokonda za Balenciaga, komanso kuvina kwa mtsinje kwa Jean Paul Gaultier. Monga m'modzi mwa owonetsa bwino kwambiri masiku ano, kukongola kwa ku Canada kuyika luso lake m'buku latsopano lotchedwa, "Study of Pose". Wojambulidwa ndi Steven Sebring, yemwenso amalemba nawo bukuli, chitsanzocho chimatenga mawonekedwe apadera a 1,000 akuda ndi oyera. Posachedwapa, tinali ndi mwayi wofunsana ndi chitsanzochi kuti tiphunzire vuto lochita zinthu zambiri, momwe adagonjetsera dziko la chikhalidwe cha anthu komanso zomwe amamva za imodzi mwa ntchito zake zazikulu zomwe zidakalipo-kukhala mayi.
Anthu ena amaganiza kuti kutengera chitsanzo ndi ntchito yachabechabe koma bukuli lidapangidwa kuti likhale umboni wa momwe muse ndi mawonekedwe awo adathandizira zaluso kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi kwazaka masauzande ambiri.
Kodi kudzoza kwa bukuli ndi chiyani?
Bukuli kwenikweni ndi ulemu kwa kujambula kulikonse, kanema aliyense, chithunzi chilichonse chomwe chinakhudzapo ntchito yanga monga chitsanzo. Mudzawona zolemba m'bukuli zomwe zimachokera ku Botticelli's Birth Of Venus' ndi ena omwe akuwonetseratu Charlie Chaplin. Ndi chinthu chomwe ndimanyadira kwambiri. Nthawi zonse ndimaona kuti chilichonse chomwe mukuchita m'moyo wanu, muyenera kuchita khama ndikulimbikira kuchita zomwe mungakwanitse. Anthu ena amaganiza kuti kutengera chitsanzo ndi ntchito yachabechabe koma bukuli lidapangidwa kuti likhale umboni wa momwe muse ndi mawonekedwe awo adathandizira zaluso kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi kwazaka masauzande ambiri. Kuyambira kujambula, zojambulajambula, zomangamanga, ndakatulo, filimu ndi kupitirira - zonsezi zimabwereranso ku chitsanzo ndi positi. Monga ndikudziwira, palibe amene adapanga chiphaso chonga ichi, kotero ndine wokondwa kubweretsa izi padziko lapansi ndikuwona momwe zimawulukira. Ndikukhulupirira kuti ndi buku lomwe anthu ena amaliseka ndipo ena amaphunzira mozama.
Kodi mumamudziwa bwanji Steven Sebring ndipo zinali zotani kugwira naye ntchito pa ntchitoyi?
Ndinakumana ndi Steven zaka zingapo zapitazo kudzera mwa bwenzi lapamtima, Mazdack Rassi, director director a Milk Studios. Steven adandiuza za chida choyesera chomwe akugwirapo chomwe chimatha kujambula mtundu uliwonse, nthawi imodzi. Ndinakhala nyumba yake yosungiramo zinthu zamakono zamakono ndipo tinagwira ntchito limodzi kwa nthawi yaitali ndikuchita ntchito yoyesera yosangalatsa yomwe siinawonedwe ndi anthu. Tsiku lina Steven anandiuza za momwe, m'zaka za m'ma 90, ankafuna kupanga mtundu wa encyclopedia yachitsanzo ndi chitsanzo chimodzi, koma sanapezepo chitsanzo choyenera kuchita. Zimenezo zinamveka ngati chitokoso chabwino kwa ine kotero kuti ine ndi mwamuna wanga tinabwereranso kwa iye sabata yotsatira ponena za kupanga naye bukhu. Pafupifupi sabata yotsatira tidayamba kugwira ntchito ndipo tidasankha 1000 ngati chiwerengero chabwino chazomwe tikufuna kuchita - kunena zoona sindimadziwa ngati ndingathe kupanga ma 1000 panthawiyo!
Pali zithunzi 1,000 zapadera m'bukuli. Ngakhale kwa katswiri wojambula ngati inu, zinali zovuta?
Sindiname, zinali zovuta! Ndine m'modzi mwa anthu omwe angathamangire osasiya mpaka nditagwa. Ndimakonda kudzikakamiza ndekha ndipo ndili ndi zolinga kwambiri. Kubwera ndi mawonekedwe a 1000 pafupifupi ndimamva ngati ndili pampikisano ndi ine ndekha ndipo nthawi zina ndimamva ngati ndadziyikira zovuta zomwe sindingathe kumaliza. Ndikukumbukira pafupi theka la bukulo ndikuwuza Steven ndi mwamuna wanga James kuti ndikutaya mtima. Mwamwayi iwo analipo kundilimbikitsa ndi kundipatsa kudzoza kwatsopano. Mmodzi wa iwo amafuula kuti "Grace Jones" kapena "Fred Astaire" ndipo ndinkangokhalira kudandaula pazomwe ndimaganiza kuti adauziridwa ndi munthuyo. Nthawi zina ndimatha kuphatikiza anthu awiri. Bwanji ngati Elvis Presley anali m'thupi la Marilyn Monroe? Kodi munthuyo akanasuntha bwanji? Pamapeto pake mawonekedwe ake adakhala ngati sewero la jazi. Ndimangokhalira kuyang'ana m'mbuyo m'buku ndikukumbukira yemwe kapena zomwe zidalimbikitsa.
Munakhala bwanji ndi luso pa luso la positi?
Kuyika ndichinthu chomwe ndikugwirabe ntchito, ndine wophunzira wanthawi zonse! Ndikukumbukira ndikuwerenga m'buku la Malcolm Gladwell "Outliers" kuti zimatengera pafupifupi maola zikwi khumi kuti azichita bwino m'munda. Sindikudziwa ngati ndagunda panobe koma ndikuganiza kuti ndili bwino. Kumayambiriro kwa ntchito yanga ndinadutsa mumsasa wa bootlelling ku Asia womwe unali wovuta kwambiri. Ndili ndi zaka 15 anandiika ku Taipei ndi Singapore kukajambula makatalogu. Zowonetsera kumeneko ndizowonetseratu zomwe ndimayankhula pang'ono m'bukuli. Makasitomala amakhala patebulo ndi anthu khumi ndipo amati, "Chabwino ndiye kalozera wathu lero ndi "Sexy" kapena "Cutesy." Ndiyeno inu, monga chitsanzo chomwe mukulimbirana ntchitoyo, mukuyenera kupikisana ndi chitsanzo china kuti muwonetsere kuti muli ndi zida zambiri kuposa iye. Zili ngati kuyerekezera imfa! Mukapeza ntchitoyo, mujambula zithunzi 75. Nthawi zina ndinkawombera awiri pa tsiku ndipo izi zinkapitirira kwa miyezi ingapo.
Nkhani inamveka posachedwa kuti mukuyembekezera mwana wanu woyamba. Zabwino zonse! Kodi ukumva bwanji?
Ndine wokondwa kwambiri chifukwa cha gawo lalikulu lotsatira m'moyo wanga. James ndi ine takhala tikukhumba ana nthawi ikakwana, ndipo ndimadzimva ngati ndili pamalo odabwitsa pompano kuti ndilandire mwana. Ndili ndi kanyumba kakang'ono kokongola kumudzi, ndili ndi mwamuna wanga James yemwe amakhala pambali panga tsiku lililonse ndipo tonse timakhala ndi ntchito ndi ntchito zosangalatsa kwambiri. Kukhala ndi mwana kudzakhala projekiti yosangalatsa kwambiri yomwe aliyense wa ife adakhalapo ndipo tili okondwa kuwona momwe moyo ukuchitikira. Chimodzi mwamawu omwe ndimawakonda kwambiri a Jean Paul Gaultier omwe adalemba buku langa ndi "Chimodzi mwazinthu zabwino kwambiri pamoyo ndikudabwa". Pali zambiri zomwe mungakonzekere, zina zonse monga Jean Paul Gaultier adanena, ndizodabwitsa kwambiri!
Kodi mungafune kuti mwana wanu azitengera chitsanzo akadzakula? Doutzen Kroes posachedwapa adati angakonde kuti mwana wake wamkazi asatero.
Ndikukhulupirira kuti Doutzen ali ndi zifukwa zake koma ndikuganiza kuti zingakhale zachinyengo kwa ine ngati chitsanzo kuti mwana wanga anene motsimikiza kuti sangatsanzire. Kwa chitsanzo chaching'ono chilichonse choyambira bizinesi iyi, ndikuganiza kuti ndikofunikira kudziwa ndikudziyesa kuti ndinu ndani komanso zomwe mukuyimira. Ndine wokondwa kuti ndapeza bwino m'makampani koma ndikunyadira kuti ndazichita ndekha, kupambana pazochitika zonse sikunakhaleko kokongola kwa ine. Ndikuyembekeza kukhomereza mfundo zomwezo mwa mwana wanga kuti ziwatsogolere pa chilichonse chomwe angasankhe, kutengera chitsanzo kapena ayi. Chinthu chimodzi chimene ndinena, ndikuganiza kuti zitsanzo za ana aang'ono ayenera kukhala ndi mtsogoleri wawo pa mphukira, popanda kusiyanitsa ndi lamulo. Palibe chifukwa choti wachinyamata wachinyamata atumizidwe yekha ku studio ya wojambula zithunzi, zosavomerezeka. Inu kulibwino mukhulupirire kuti ndikanakhalapo pambali ngati mwana wanga wamwamuna kapena wamkazi akujambula!
Ndi nthawi iti yomwe mwanyadira kwambiri pantchito yanu mpaka pano?
Ndakhala ndi nthawi zodabwitsa pantchito yanga kuyambira pachikuto changa choyamba cha Vogue waku Italy ndi Steven Meisel mpaka ku Irish Dancing pansi pa msewu wa Jean Paul Gaultier. wina. Ntchito yanga m’mabungwe achifundo ku Haiti ndi Cambodia yandibweretsera chikhutiro chokulirapo monga momwe zinakhalira ndikusintha malamulo a anthu ang’onoang’ono amtundu wa Model ku New York chaka chatha.
Muli ndi otsatira ambiri pama media ochezera, ndipo monga ndikukumbukira, imodzi mwazinthu zazikulu zoyambirira kukumbatira chinthu chonsecho. Kodi mukuganiza kuti mitundu tsopano ili ndi "mawu" ambiri tsopano chifukwa cha masamba monga Instagram, Twitter, ndi zina? Ndipo nchiyani chinakulimbikitsani kuti muyambe pa social media?
Pamene ndinayamba kutsanzira, zaka khumi zapitazo, panalibe malo ochezera a pa Intaneti monga momwe tilili lero. Ojambula zithunzi anali akugwiritsabe ntchito filimu yeniyeni m’makamera awo! Ndikumva kukalamba! Monga m'modzi mwa oyamba m'mafashoni kukumbatiradi media media ndidamva kukayikira kuchokera kwa anthu ena pamakampani panthawiyo. Panalibe chitsanzo cha chitsanzo chokhala ndi umunthu, wodzilankhula yekha pa intaneti. Ena anandiuza kuti ndikugawana zambiri, kuti ndikuwopsyeza makasitomala komanso kuti mafashoni ayenera kukhala "osakhudzidwa" ndipo ndinali wofikirika kwambiri. Mwamwayi kwa ine sizinali choncho ndipo ndinachita bwino pamene ndimamanga omvera anga. Masiku ano kukhala ndi malo ochezera a pa Intaneti ndikofunikira. Ndikudziwa kuti makasitomala ena amafunikira gawo lina la otsatira a instagram kwa atsikana omwe amawalemba ntchito inde, nthawi zasintha! Ndikuganiza kuti malo ochezera a pa Intaneti amapereka mwayi wosangalatsa kwa ine, monga chitsanzo, kuti ndizitha kulamulira sing'anga ndi kudziwonetsera ndekha. Pokhala ndi otsatira 14 miliyoni, ndimaganizira mosamala zomwe ndikunena komanso zomwe ndikuyimira.
Ndidawona a Jean Paul Gaultier adalemba bukuli. Munayendanso chiwonetsero chake chomaliza chokonzekera kuvala. Mukuganiza bwanji za kusiya kokonzekera kuvala?
Jean Paul Gaultier ndi mnzanga wokondedwa kwambiri ndipo zowonetsera zake zakhala zopambana kwambiri pa ntchito yanga. Ndikumvetsetsa zifukwa zake zosiya RTW ndikuganiza kuti tili ndi zambiri zoti tiyembekezere ndi mawonetsero ake. Kunena zowona, sindikudziwa momwe padziko lapansi adachitira ziwonetsero 6 zamafashoni pachaka kwa nthawi yayitali. Umenewo ndi liŵiro lamisala loti tipitirizebe. Tsopano ali ndi ziwonetsero za 2 pachaka ndipo zidzakhala zozizwitsa zodabwitsa. Sindingathe kudikira kuti ndiwone zomwe adzachita.
Kodi mungapatse upangiri wanji kwa atsikana ndi anyamata omwe akufuna kukhala azitsogozo?
Ndikuganiza kuti chitsanzo chabwino chiyenera kukhala chaukadaulo komanso chofunitsitsa kugwira ntchito molimbika. Atsikana ambiri amaganiza kuti kutengera chitsanzo ndi moyo, osati ntchito. Chitsanzo chabwino chiyenera kudziwa ngodya zake, kuunikira kwake, ndikukhalapo kuti zilimbikitse wojambula zithunzi. Chofunikanso ayenera kudziwa kuti iye ndi ndani komanso zomwe ali nazo. Kupsyinjika kwakukulu kukhoza kuikidwa pa chitsanzo kuti asokonezeke koma ndimapeza umphumphu nthawi zambiri umapindula. Pa nthawi yomweyi chitsanzo chimafunikanso kukhala ndi khungu lakuda chifukwa chikhalidwe chamasiku ano ndi chimodzi chotsutsa. Pamene akumva, "Ndiwe wonenepa kwambiri" kapena "woonda kwambiri" pamasewero ndi pamasewero ochezera a pa Intaneti, wojambula ayenera kuyesetsa kuti asatengere payekha - ngakhale, pamene mukuziganizira, ndizowonadi zaumwini.
Ngati simunali chitsanzo, kodi njira yanu yosankha ingakhale yotani ndipo chifukwa chiyani?
Ndinayang'aniridwa pa mpikisano wovina wa ku Ireland ndili ndi zaka 14 kotero ngati sindikadakhala wojambula mwina ndikanakhala mphunzitsi wovina. Nthaŵi zonse ndimakonda kuvina ndipo ngakhale ndili ndi zaka 14 ndinkaphunzitsa atsikana aang’ono m’kalasi mwanga.