Ponena za dziko lachitsanzo, kusiyanasiyana kwafika patali kwambiri zaka zingapo zapitazi. Kuchokera pakuwonetsa mitundu yamitundu mpaka makulidwe angapo kapena mitundu yosakhala ya binary, pali kupita patsogolo kwenikweni. Komabe, pali njira yayitali yoti ipitirire popanga ma modeling a level play field. M'nyengo yophukira ya 2017, 27.9% yamitundu yothamangira ndege inali mitundu yamitundu, malinga ndi lipoti la The Fashion Spot. Zinali kusintha kwa 2.5% poyerekeza ndi nyengo yapitayi.
Ndipo n’cifukwa ciani kusiyana kwa citsanzo n’kofunika? Muyezo wokhazikitsidwa ndi makampaniwo ukhoza kukhudza kwambiri atsikana omwe amagwira ntchito ngati zitsanzo. Monga woyambitsa wa Model Alliance, Sara Ziff Malinga ndi kafukufuku wa 2017, "oposa 62 peresenti [ya anthu omwe adafunsidwa] adanena kuti adafunsidwa kuti achepetse thupi kapena kusintha mawonekedwe kapena kukula kwawo ndi bungwe lawo kapena munthu wina wogwira ntchito." Kusintha kwa maonekedwe a thupi kungathandize kuti makampaniwa akhale abwino kwa zitsanzo komanso atsikana owoneka bwino akuyang'ana zithunzi.
Mitundu Yakuda & Zosiyanasiyana
Chigawo chimodzi cha ma modeling chomwe chapita patsogolo ndicho kupanga mitundu yamitundu. Zikafika pamitundu yakuda, pali angapo pakukwera nyenyezi. Mayina ngati Imaan Hammam, Linesy Montero ndi Adwoa Aboah zakhala zikuyang'ana kwambiri muzaka zaposachedwa. Komabe, munthu angazindikire kuti ambiri mwa zitsanzozi ndi opepuka pakhungu. Ngakhale kugwiritsa ntchito mitundu yambiri yamitundu ndikoyenera kuyamikiridwa, chowonadi ndi chakuti akazi akuda amabwera mumitundu yosiyanasiyana yakhungu.
Pakhoza kukhalanso nkhani ya tokenism mumakampani. Monga wotsogolera osadziwika yemwe adauza Glossy mu 2017, zimayamba ndi kuchuluka kwa mitundu yamitundu yomwe ilipo. "Mwachitsanzo, mabungwe ena opanga zitsanzo ali ndi mafuko ochepa poyambira, ndipo mawonetsero awo a sabata yamafashoni amatha kukhala ndi zochepa. Kaŵirikaŵiri amakhala, monga, aŵiri kapena atatu a atsikana Achiafirika Achimereka, mmodzi wa ku Asia ndi 20 kapena kuposerapo amitundu ya ku Caucasus.”
Chanel Iman adauzanso The Times mu 2013 za kuthana ndi chithandizo chofananacho. “Nthaŵi zingapo ndinakhululukidwa ndi olinganiza amene anandiuza kuti, ‘Tapeza kale mtsikana wakuda. Sitikufunanso.’ Ndinakhumudwa kwambiri.”
Kukula kwa Zitsanzo zaku Asia
Monga China yakhala gawo lalikulu pazachuma padziko lonse lapansi, poyamba mudawona kuwonjezeka kwamitundu yaku East Asia. Kuyambira 2008 mpaka 2011, zitsanzo monga Liu Wen, Ming Xi ndi Sui Iye idakwera kwambiri m'makampani. Atsikanawo adachita zokopa zazikulu komanso zolemba zamagazini apamwamba kwambiri a mafashoni. Komabe, m’kupita kwa zaka, kukankhirako kuti awone nkhope zambiri za ku Asia m’mafashoni kunkawoneka kutsika.
M'misika yambiri ya ku Asia, zitsanzo zomwe zimaphimba magazini kapena zowonekera m'magulu otsatsa malonda ndi a Caucasian. Kuphatikiza apo, zinthu zopangira bleaching ndizodziwikanso m'malo monga China, India ndi Japan. Mizu ya chikhumbo cha khungu lokongola likhoza kumangidwanso ku nthawi zakale ndi dongosolo la kalasi lozikika. Komabe, pali china chake chovuta pamalingaliro ogwiritsira ntchito mankhwala kuti asinthe kamvekedwe ka khungu mu 2017.
Ndipo mitundu yaku South Asia yokhala ndi mawonekedwe akuda kapena zokulirapo sizipezeka pamsika. M'malo mwake, pomwe Vogue India idavumbulutsa chivundikiro chake chazaka 10 chokhala ndi nyenyezi Kendall Jenner , owerenga ambiri adatenga malo ochezera a pa Intaneti kuti asonyeze kukhumudwa kwawo. Wothirira ndemanga pa Instagram ya magaziniyo analemba kuti: “Uwu unali mwayi wokondwereradi cholowa ndi chikhalidwe cha Amwenye. Kuwonetsa anthu aku India. Ndikukhulupirira kuti mupanga zisankho zabwino kupita patsogolo, kuti mukhale chilimbikitso kwa anthu aku India. "
Curvy & Plus-Size Models
Pankhani yake ya June 2011, Vogue Italia idakhazikitsa njira yake yosinthira yokhala ndi mitundu yokulirapo yokha. Atsikana omwe anali pachikuto anaphatikizansopo Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine ndi Robyn Lawley . Ichi chinali chiyambi cha ma curvy model omwe akutenga nawo gawo mumakampani opanga mafashoni. Ngakhale kupita patsogolo kwayamba pang'onopang'ono, tidawona Ashley Graham adapeza chivundikiro cha 2016 cha Sports Illustrated: Swimsuit Issue, ndikuyika chithunzi choyambirira chowonjezera kuti chikomere kufalitsa. Kuphatikizika kwa ma curvy zitsanzo monga Graham, Barbie Ferreira, Iskra Lawrence ndi ena kumawonjezera kusuntha kwaposachedwa kwa thupi.
Komabe, kuphatikiza kukula kwakukulu kumakhalabe ndi vuto ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana. Mitundu yakuda, Latina ndi Asia ikusowa kwenikweni m'nkhani zodziwika bwino. Nkhani ina yofunika kuyang'ana ndi kusiyana kwa thupi. Ambiri amitundu yokulirapo amakhala ndi mawonekedwe agalasi la ola ndipo amafanana bwino. Mofanana ndi khungu, matupi amabweranso mosiyanasiyana. Ma Model okhala ndi mawonekedwe a maapulo kapena zowongoka zowoneka bwino nthawi zambiri samasainidwa kapena kuwonetseredwa mowonekera. Kuphatikiza apo, palinso funso lolemba ma curvy models motere.
Mwachitsanzo, mu 2010. Myla Dalbesio anasonyezedwa monga chitsanzo pa kampeni ya zovala zamkati za Calvin Klein. Pa kukula kwa 10 US, anthu ambiri adanena kuti sanali wokulirapo. Mwachikhalidwe, opanga mafashoni amalemba zovala zazikuluzikulu ngati kukula 14 kupita mmwamba. Pamene mukujambula, mawuwa amakhudza kukula kwa 8 ndi pamwamba.
Ndi kusiyana kosokoneza kumeneku, mwina ndichifukwa chake ma curvier model amakonda Robyn Lawley yitanitsa makampani kuti asiye chizindikiro chowonjezera. "Ineyo pandekha, ndimadana ndi mawu akuti 'plus-size'," adatero Lawley poyankhulana ndi Cosmopolitan Australia mu 2014. "Ndizopusa komanso zonyoza - zimatsitsa akazi ndipo zimawayika chizindikiro."
Zithunzi za Transgender
M'zaka zaposachedwa, mitundu ya transgender monga Hari Nef ndi Andreja Pejic zafika powonekera. Adapanga kampeni zama brand monga Gucci, Makeup Forever ndi Kenneth Cole. Chitsanzo cha ku Brazil Lea T. adagwira ntchito ngati nkhope ya Givenchy pa nthawi ya Riccardo Tisci pa chizindikiro. Zowoneka, komabe, mitundu yamitundu ya transgender imasowa kwambiri ikafika pamitundu yodziwika bwino.
Tawonanso zitsanzo za transgender zikuyenda pa Fashion Week. Marc Jacobs adawonetsa mitundu itatu ya transgender pachiwonetsero chake chadzinja cha 2017 pa New York Fashion Week. Komabe, monga pulofesa waku Columbia Jack Halberstam ikunena za mkhalidwe waposachedwapa m’nkhani ya New York Times, “N’zosangalatsa kuti padziko lapansi pali zinthu zina zotuluka m’thupi, koma munthu ayenera kusamala ndi zimene zimatanthauza kupyola pamenepo komanso ponena za nkhani zandale. Kuwoneka konse sikumatsogolera njira yopita patsogolo. Nthawi zina zimangokhala zowonekera. ”
Chiyembekezo cha Tsogolo
Tikayang'ana mozama zamakampani opanga ma modelling ndi kusiyanasiyana, tiyeneranso kuyamikira omwe ali mubizinesi omwe amawongolera. Kuchokera kwa okonza magazini mpaka opanga, pali mayina ambiri odziwika omwe akufuna kukankhira mitundu yosiyanasiyana. Wotsogolera James Scully adapita ku Instagram mu Marichi kuti adzudzule mtundu waku France Lanvin popempha kuti "asaperekedwe ndi akazi amtundu". Scully adawululanso polankhula ndi Business of Fashion mu 2016 kuti wojambula anakana kuwombera chitsanzo chifukwa anali wakuda.
Okonza monga Christian Siriano ndi Olivier Rousteing aku Balmain nthawi zambiri amaponya mitundu yamitundu munjira zawo zowulutsira ndege kapena kampeni. Ndipo magazini monga Teen Vogue amaphatikizanso mitundu yosiyanasiyana yamitundu ndi nyenyezi zakutsogolo. Tikhozanso kubwereketsa zitsanzo monga Jourdan Dunn omwe amatsutsa zokumana nazo zatsankho mumakampani. Dunn adawulula mu 2013 kuti wojambula zodzoladzola woyera sanafune kumugwira kumaso chifukwa cha khungu lake.
Titha kuyang'ananso mabungwe ena monga ma Slay Models (omwe amayimira ma transgender) ndi Anti-Agency (omwe amasaina mitundu yosakhala yachikhalidwe) kuti asankhe zambiri. Chinthu chimodzi ndi chomveka. Kuti mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zojambulajambula ikhale yabwino, anthu ayenera kupitiriza kulankhula ndi kukhala okonzeka kutenga mwayi.