Ubwoya bwari burebure ikimenyetso cyimyambarire n'imiterere. Ariko mugihe twimukiye mu kinyejana cya 21, byahindutse byinshi byo kwambara. Hamwe n'inzu nziza z'imyambarire nka Gucci iherutse gutangaza icyemezo cyo kugenda ubwoya, gukoresha uruhu rwinyamaswa birihuta cyane. Ibindi biranga imideli nka Armani, Hugo Boss na Ralph Lauren nabyo byagiye byubusa mumyaka yashize.
Amatangazo ya Gucci yatangajwe mu Kwakira 2017 yateje amakuru akomeye ku isi. “Gucci kugenda ubwoya ni impinduka nini mu guhindura umukino. Kugirango iyi power power irangire ikoreshwa ryubwoya kubera ubugome burimo bizagira ingaruka zikomeye kwisi yimyambarire. Amatungo atangaje miliyoni 100 ku mwaka aracyafite ikibazo cy’inganda z’ubwoya, ariko ibyo birashobora gukomeza igihe cyose abashushanya bakomeje gukoresha ubwoya ndetse n’abaguzi bakagura ”, ibi bikaba byavuzwe na Kitty Block, perezida wa Humane Society International.
Impamvu ubwoya butakiri igikoko
Ubwoya butakaza kwamamara mubirango byiza kandi hariho ibintu byinshi byo gusobanura impamvu. Amatsinda aharanira uburenganzira bwinyamaswa nka PETA no Kubaha Inyamaswa basunikiraga ibirango guhagarika gukoresha ubwoya mumyaka myinshi. Umuyobozi mukuru wa Gucci, Marco Bizzarri, yabwiye Vogue ati: "Ubu ikoranabuhanga riraboneka bivuze ko udakeneye gukoresha ubwoya." “Ubundi buryo ni bwiza. Ntibikenewe. ”
Reka turebe ibintu byihariye byatangajwe na Gucci. Ikirangantego kizaba cyuzuye ubwoya mugihe cyizuba 2018. Mu myaka icumi ishize, isosiyete yashora imari mu mpu za sintetike ndetse n’umutungo urambye. Mu buryo nk'ubwo, Gucci izateza cyamunara ibikoresho byayo bisigaye hamwe n’amafaranga yinjira mu mashyirahamwe aharanira uburenganzira bw’inyamaswa.
Indi mpamvu yerekana imideli myinshi yimuka yubwoya irashobora guhuzwa nabaguzi ubwabo. Niba ugiye kuri page ya Facebook cyangwa Twitter kumurongo ukoresha ubwoya cyangwa ugerageza ibicuruzwa byo kwisiga kumatungo, uzabona abakiriya bandika ibitekerezo byerekana ko batengushye. Byongeye kandi, kwibanda kubidukikije ni ngombwa kubakoresha imyaka igihumbi. Kandi bivugwa ko itsinda rirenga kimwe cya kabiri cyabakiriya ba Gucci.
Ni ubuhe butumwa bukomeye kuri ubwoya?
Nubwo amazu menshi yimyambarire agikora ibicuruzwa byuruhu, hariho impamvu nyinshi zituma ubwoya bugaragara nkigikorwa cyubugome. Inyandiko yo muri Sydney Morning Herald yerekana ko 85% yubwoya bukorerwa ku isi hose binyuze mu buhinzi bw’uruganda. Ati: “Noneho hariho ubwicanyi. Uburyo buratandukanye bitewe na gaze (bikunze kugaragara muri EU) no gutera inshinge zica, kuvunika ijosi, hamwe no gukomeretsa mu kanwa no mu kanwa (bitera indwara y'umutima mugihe inyamaswa iba ibizi), "ibi bikaba byavuzwe na Herald's Clare Press.
Haracyariho abaharanira uburenganzira bwinyamanswa hamwe nabaguzi bireba bafite ibyo banenga kuruta kutarenza imyambarire yubusa. Gukoresha kogosha, uruhu nubwoya biracyari ingingo zikomeye kuri bamwe. Nubwo bimeze bityo ariko, inganda zirimo gufata ingamba zisobanutse zo kurushaho kuramba no kumenya inyamaswa.
Stella McCartney, wabaye ubwoya ndetse nimpu kuva ikirango cye cyatangira agira icyo avuga kubijyanye nigihe kizaza cyimyambarire. Ati: "Nizeye ko ibizaba mu myaka 10, abantu bazasubiza amaso inyuma bakareba ko twishe amamiliyaridi y’inyamanswa tugatema hegitari miliyoni z’ishyamba ry’imvura, kandi [twakoresheje] amazi mu buryo budakorwa neza - turabishoboye. ' t gukomeza iyi mibereho, "abwira Vogue UK. Ati: "Ndizera rero ko abantu bazasubiza amaso inyuma bakavuga bati:" Mubyukuri? Nibyo bakoze kugirango bakore inkweto, mubyukuri? 'Niba ufite amahirwe yo kugira ubucuruzi kuri iyi si, ugomba kubyegera muri ubu buryo [burambye]. ”
Kandi mubyukuri bimwe mubiranga imideli ikonje kandi ya buzziest yafashe inzira irambye. Reba ibigo nka Ivugurura, AwaveAwake, Maiyet na Dolores Haze ikoresha ibikoresho birambye. Uburyo bwabo bwo kumenya bwabahesheje umuguzi wihaye.
Nyuma yo guhagarika ubwoya, Niki gikurikira?
Mugihe imideli myinshi yamamaye itangiye kwanga ubwoya, imiterere yinganda zizakomeza gutera imbere. Ati: “Utekereza ko gukoresha ubwoya muri iki gihe bikiri bigezweho? Ntabwo ntekereza ko bikiri bigezweho niyo mpamvu yatumye duhitamo kutabikora. Nibihe bitarenze igihe, "ibi ni ibyatangajwe n'umuyobozi mukuru wa Gucci, Marco Bizzarri kuri Business of Fashion. “Guhanga birashobora gusimbuka mu byerekezo byinshi aho gukoresha ubwoya.”
Nubwo ibirango bigenda bifata ingamba zo kurwanya ibikoresho nkubwoya nimpu, haracyari akamaro ko gushushanya. Abaguzi ntibazagura gusa kubutumwa, ni muburyo bwa Stella McCartney. Ati: "Ntekereza ko imyambarire igomba gukomeza kwinezeza no kwinezeza no kwifuzwa, kandi ushobora kubaho inzozi binyuze mubyo turema, ariko urashobora kandi kumva ufite umutekano ukoresha muburyo bwumvikana… Noneho ni igihe cyo guhinduka, ubu ni igihe cyo kureba icyakorwa ndetse n'ikoranabuhanga rishobora kudukiza. ”