Mu myaka yashize, twabonye moderi nyinshi zabirabura zihinduka inzira. Kuva kubwa mbere kubinyamakuru kugeza kumurongo wo kwerekana no kwiyamamaza, ubudasa nikibazo gikomeye mubikorwa byimyambarire. Kugeza ubu, nta gitabo cyubuhanzi kirimo moderi yumukara gusa. Umwanditsi Marcellas Reynolds, uzwiho kandi kuba umunyamakuru n’umunyamakuru w’imyidagaduro, yubaha ubwiza n'imbaraga zabo hamwe nigitabo cye. Abanyamideli Bakuru: Iconic Abagore Birabura Bahinduye Imyambarire ikubiyemo amashusho yibishushanyo nka Naomi Campbell, Beverly Johnson, Pat Cleveland, hamwe nabastar bashya nka Joan Smalls na Adut Akech. Usibye amafoto meza, kwerekana inyandiko kimwe nibiganiro byatangajwe. Muminsi ishize twagize amahirwe yo kubaza Reynolds murugendo rwo gukora igitabo, icyo atekereza kazoza kinyuranye, kandi niba hazakurikiranwa.
Kubona byatwaye imyaka umunani Icyitegererezo Cyikirenga byasohotse kubera ko abamamaji benshi bavugaga ko nta soko ryigitabo cyerekana amateka yumukara.
–Marcellas Reynolds
Byari bitangaje gusoma ko nta gitabo cyahariwe moderi zabirabura mbere, bigatuma iki gikorwa kiba ingenzi cyane. Utekereza ko ari ukubera iki? Haba hari umusemburo wihariye wo gukora uyu mushinga?
Models yikirenga nigitabo cya mbere cya ART cyeguriwe hejuru yumukara. Ariko, hariho ibindi bitabo byeguriwe moderi yumukara ariko ntabwo biri muriki cyiciro cyangwa cyiki gipimo. Byatwaye imyaka umunani kugirango Models yikirenga isohore kubera ko abamamaji benshi bavugaga ko nta soko ryigitabo cyerekana amateka yumukara. Nashishikajwe no kwandika Abanyamideli Nkuru nsubiza Vogue Model: The Faces of Fashion, igitabo cyasohowe muri 2011, cyeguriwe abanyamideli bagaragaye muri British Vogue. Harimo gusa moderi ebyiri z'umukara; Iman na Naomi Campbell.
Ikintu gitangaje cyane kuri Vogue Model kwari ukwirengagiza imana Donyale Luna, wabaye umunyamideli wa mbere wabirabura wagaragaye ku gifuniko kuri ANY Vogue ubwo yageraga ku gifuniko cya British Vogue mu 1966. Iyo ni imyaka itanu mbere yuko Vogue Italia ishyira Carol LaBrie ku gipfukisho cyayo, n'imyaka umunani mbere yuko Vogue y'Abanyamerika ishyira Beverly Johnson ku gipfukisho cyayo. Ku ya 19 Mata 2011, umunsi nakiriye igitabo Vogue Model, nahisemo kwandika Models yikirenga kugirango mpa abirabura icyubahiro babikwiye. Gushimira no kwemeza ko ibindi bitabo byubuhanzi nka Harper's Bazaar Models, Models of Influence: Abagore 50 Basubiramo amasomo yimyambarire, Model nka Muse: Embodying Fashion, na Vogue Model: Isura yimyambarire yirengagije gukora.
Sobanura inzira yo guhitamo amashusho kubitabo.
Guhindura, guhindura, guhindura! Hano hari amafoto menshi meza kandi ashushanya muri Moderi Nkuru. Mumaze guhitamo icyitegererezo cyo gushyira mubitabo, byari bikomeye cyane, nahisemo amafoto nkunda ya buri. Abanyamideli bampaye ibiganiro babonye amahitamo namafoto menshi. Yamanutse kumafoto yaboneka, naya mafoto nashoboraga gutanga uruhushya nigiciro! Ingengo yumwimerere yari 35.000 $, ariko byatwaye kabiri ayo, nishyuye mumufuka.
Icyo dukeneye kubona kurwego rwo hejuru rwimyambarire no inyuma yinyuma, ni abagore benshi bafata ibyemezo nabantu benshi bafite ibara mumwanya wubutegetsi. Biriko biraba, naho buhoro.
–Marcellas Reynolds
Hamwe nubuzima bwabirabura buzana ikiganiro cyubwoko butandukanye, utekereza ko tuzabona impinduka zirambye muruganda?
Ndemeza ko imyambarire ibanziriza impinduka zabaturage. Iyo tubonye moderi yamabara yerekanwe neza mumatangazo, ibinyamakuru, no kumuhanda, byerekana abareba ibizakurikiraho. Nibyo, turacyafite byinshi byo gukora mubyimyambarire, ariko imyambarire kubyo yananiwe byose iratera imbere kuruta societe muri rusange. Wibuke, kwerekana imideli nubucuruzi bwonyine aho igitsina gore cyinjiza amafaranga menshi kurenza abagabo babo. Ubucuruzi bwimyambarire bukoresha abagore benshi kurenza abagabo nubwo abagabo bagikora. Ibyo bigomba guhinduka. Icyo dukeneye kubona kurwego rwo hejuru rwimyambarire no inyuma yinyuma, ni abagore benshi bafata ibyemezo nabantu benshi bafite ibara mumwanya wubutegetsi. Biriko biraba, naho buhoro.
Haba hari anecdote zishimishije zo gukora kubitabo?
Hano haribintu byinshi byabasazi byabaye mumyaka umunani byantwaye kwandika no gutangaza Model Nkuru. Dore kimwe mubyifuzo byanjye: Steven Meisel yampaye ifoto ye ya Vogue Italia ya Naomi Campbell. Naomi, uwo nasabye kwandika Ijambo ry'ibanze, yataye ku munota wa nyuma. Amaze kumwoherereza imiterere yigitabo, ntabwo yakunze ifoto nabanje guteganya kuzakoresha mugice cye. Yasabye ifoto ya Steven Meisel.
Nibyiza, nta mafaranga nari nsigaranye yo kugura amashusho yinyongera. Nafashe umwaka kugirango nandike igitabo kandi nkoresha amafaranga yose nizigamiye kwishyura ubukode, kurya, kandi mubaho. Nakoresheje kandi amafaranga nizigamiye kugirango nishyure abanditsi bamafoto hamwe ninshi mumafaranga yo gutanga uruhushya. Nihebye cyane negera reps za Meisel zimugeraho, Bwana Meisel ampa ubuntu kumpano ye! Naomi yabonye ibyo yamusabye, nuzuza umwobo mu gitabo cyanjye. Steven Meisel numufotozi nkunda. Nshimishijwe cyane no kubona umurimo we mu gitabo cyanjye!
Utekereza ko ari gute inganda zerekana imideli zishobora gutera imbere mubijyanye no gushyigikira impano yabirabura?
Nibyiza, uruganda rwimyambarire rwagomba kuduha akazi mbere yuko badutera inkunga. Kenshi cyane kumyambarire, Ninjye mwirabura wenyine. Ndi uwigenga! Ibyo bivuze ko aya masosiyete adafite abakozi b'igihe cyose b'abirabura! Nta konte yumukara execs, abanditsi, abanyamideli, imisatsi nabahanzi, kandi ntabafotora birabura, cyangwa nabafasha kumafoto. Dukeneye abantu benshi bafite amabara inyuma yinyuma no mumwanya dushobora gushiraho impinduka nyazo!
Iki gitabo kirimo supermodels mumyaka mirongo. Nibintu bishya byuyu munsi ubona bigeze kumashusho?
Hano hari moderi nshya zicyubahiro, nyinshi nerekanye imbere muri Moderi Nkuru. Adut Akech birashoboka ko ari numero ya mbere kwisi kwisi. Anok Yai afite umwuga udasanzwe. Duckie Thot nimwe mubitegererezo byiza bikora uyumunsi. Ndumiwe na Dilone, nkeka ko ari ubwiza bwa kera bwibutsa Donyale Luna na Pat Cleveland. Precious Lee numupaka urenze urugero wongeyeho moderi isaba umwanya we mwisi yo gutunganya no kwerekana inzira. Ndibwira ko buri wese muri aba bagore afite ubushobozi nubushake bwo kugera kumashusho.
Ni iki wishimiye cyane gukora kuri uyu mushinga?
Igice nakunze cyo gukora Moderi yikirenga kwari ukubaza ibibazo. Nabajije abagore barenga mirongo ine, nubwo benshi batakoze igitabo. Na none, byaje kumanuka kumafoto. Nigitabo cyubuhanzi. Kuba inyangamugayo, urwenya, n'ubwenge bw'aba bagore birabagirana. Icyo nkundira cyane kubazwa ni aba bagore bakunda kandi bashyigikirana. Barishimye! Iyo wunvise inkuru za Naomi na Tyra ubushyamirane, ugomba kumenya ko ari ibicucu.
Mubihe byinshi, izo moderi zakoranye kugirango zifashe gutsinda. Ni ikintu cyiza. Abanyamideli benshi bavuze inkuru zerekeye Naomi ubafasha! Naomi ntabwo yatinyaga gusimburwa nizindi moderi. Ngiyo inkuru yakozwe nabazungu nabanyamakuru kugirango basebye trailblazer yabangamiye uko ibintu bimeze. Naomi numugore wivugiye wenyine nabandi bagore bafite ibara. Tugomba kumuzamura imbaraga nubutwari byatwaye.
Niki wizera ko abantu bakuramo igitabo?
Nizere ko igitabo kimurikira ubwitange, akazi gakomeye, nimpano bisaba kugirango ube icyitegererezo cyiza. Byinshi cyane birenze genetika. Nizere ko umusomyi amenya uburyo imyambarire nicyitegererezo ari ngombwa kumuco na societe. Ni ngombwa bidasanzwe kubana kwibona bahagarariwe neza kandi neza. Niyo mpamvu gutandukana no kubishyiramo ari ngombwa. Kubona abandi basa nkuwatsinze bifasha gucengeza ishema mubareba.
Imishinga yose iri imbere wifuza gusangira?
Ndubahwa kandi ndumiwe nurukundo rwikitegererezo rukomeje kwakira mubinyamakuru nabagore DM cyangwa banyandikira mvuga icyo igitabo kibasobanurira. Ndacyafite amarira kubyerekeye. Mbandikiye ikurikirana kuri Moderi yikirenga, nizere ko izatangaza kugwa 2021. Nashyize imyambarire yimyambarire inyuma. Ntabwo niteguye gusubira gushiraho ubuzima. Natangiye gukora nkumukozi wa casting, kandi mfite imishinga kuva ABC na NBC mubishobora. Ndashaka guhindura imyumvire tubona kuri tereviziyo.
Sinzi abagore bitwara nkabo tubona kuri Bravo. Sinzi abagore nkigiramo uruhare na vapid nkabakinnyi ba KUWTK. Ndashaka kubona uburyo butandukanye kandi bwiza bwerekana abagore nabaturage ba LGBTQI kuri tereviziyo. Dukeneye kwerekana ibyukuri kandi byiza byamatsinda yahejejwe inyuma mubitangazamakuru. Impinduka izaba gusa mugihe abagize aya matsinda bahawe intebe kumeza! Noneho tugomba kwemererwa kuvuga, gutega amatwi, no kugira imbaraga zo gukora impinduka.