Iyo bigeze ku isi yerekana icyitegererezo, ubudasa bugeze kure mumyaka myinshi ishize. Kuva kwerekana ibara ryamabara kugeza murwego rwubunini cyangwa butari binary moderi, hariho iterambere ryukuri. Ariko, haracyari inzira ndende iyo bigeze gukora moderi urwego rwo gukiniraho. Raporo y’imyidagaduro ya Fashion Spot ivuga ko mu gihe cyizuba cyo kugwa 2017, 27.9% yimodoka yo kwiruka yari moderi yamabara. Byari iterambere rya 2,5% kuva saison ishize.
Kandi ni ukubera iki gutandukana mubyitegererezo ari ngombwa? Ibipimo byashyizweho ninganda birashobora kugira ingaruka zikomeye kubakobwa bato bakora nkicyitegererezo. Nkuwashinze Model Alliance, Sara Ziff agira ati: Guhindura mubireba ishusho yumubiri birashobora gufasha gukora inganda nziza kuri moderi kimwe nabakobwa batangaje bareba amashusho.
Icyitegererezo Cyirabura & Dutandukanye
Igice kimwe cyo kwerekana imiterere cyateye imbere ni ugutera ibara ryamabara. Iyo bigeze kumurongo wumukara, hariho byinshi hejuru yinyenyeri. Amazina nka Imaan Hammam, Linesy Montero na Adwoa Aboah bafashe umwanya munini mubihe byashize. Ariko, umuntu arashobora kumenya ko ibyinshi muribi byoroheje muburyo bwuruhu. Mugihe ukoresheje ibara ryinshi ryamabara ugomba gushimirwa, ikigaragara ni uko abagore birabura baza muburyo butandukanye bwuruhu.
Harashobora kandi kuba ikibazo cya tokenism muruganda. Nkuko umuyobozi wa casting utazwi yabibwiye Glossy muri 2017, bitangirana numubare wamabara yaboneka. Ati: "Kurugero, ibigo bimwe byerekana imideli bifite amoko make kubibaho kugirango bitangire, kandi icyumweru cyerekana imyambarire gishobora kuba gito. Mubisanzwe bigizwe nabakobwa babiri kugeza kuri batatu b'Abanyafurika-Abanyamerika, umwe wo muri Aziya na 20 cyangwa barenga bo muri Caucase. ”
Chanel Iman yabwiye kandi ikinyamakuru The Times mu 2013 ibijyanye no gukemura ibibazo nk'ibi. Ati: "Inshuro nke nababariwe nabashushanyije bambwira bati:" Twabonye umukobwa umwe wumwirabura. Ntabwo tugikeneye ukundi. 'Numvise nacitse intege cyane. ”
Kuzamuka kw'Abanyamideli bo muri Aziya
Nkuko Ubushinwa bwahindutse uruhare runini mubukungu bwisi, wabanje kubona ubwiyongere bwikitegererezo cya Aziya y'Uburasirazuba. Kuva muri 2008 kugeza 2011, moderi nka Liu Wen, Ming Xi na Sui He yazamutse cyane mu nganda. Abakobwa bakoze ubukangurambaga bukomeye kimwe n'ibifuniko by'ibinyamakuru byo hejuru. Ariko, uko imyaka yagiye ihita, ibyo gusunika kubona amasura menshi yo muri Aziya mumyambarire byasaga naho bigabanuka.
Mu masoko menshi yo muri Aziya, moderi ikubiyemo ibinyamakuru cyangwa igaragara mubikorwa byo kwamamaza ni Caucase. Mubyongeyeho, ibicuruzwa byo guhumanya nabyo bizwi cyane nko mubushinwa, Ubuhinde n'Ubuyapani. Imizi yicyifuzo cyuruhu rwiza irashobora guhuzwa nigihe cyakera hamwe na sisitemu yo mumashuri yashinze imizi. Biracyaza, harikintu kibangamiye igitekerezo cyo gukoresha imiti kugirango uhindure imiterere yuruhu rwumuntu muri 2017.
Na moderi yo muri Aziya yepfo ifite ibara ryijimye cyangwa ibintu binini ntabwo bigaragara mubikorwa. Mubyukuri, ubwo Vogue India yamuritse igifuniko cyimyaka 10 yakinnye Kendall Jenner , abasomyi benshi bafashe imbuga nkoranyambaga kugirango bagaragaze ko batengushye. Umwe mu batanze ibitekerezo kuri Instagram y'iki kinyamakuru yaranditse ati: "Aya yari umwanya wo kwishimira rwose umurage n'umuco w'Abahinde. Kwerekana abaturage bo mubuhinde. Ndizera ko uzafata imyanzuro myiza igatera imbere, kugira ngo ube intangarugero ku baturage b'Ubuhinde. ”
Gukata & Plus-Ingano Model
Ku nomero yacyo yo muri kamena 2011, Vogue Italia yatangije ikibazo cyayo kigoramye cyongeyeho ubunini-bunini. Igifuniko abakobwa barimo Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine na Robyn Lawley . Ibi byaranze intangiriro yimyambarire ifata inganda zerekana imideli. Nubwo iterambere ryagiye gahoro, twabonye Ashley Graham yubitse igifuniko cya Siporo ya 2016: Ikibazo cyo koga, cyerekana icyitegererezo cya mbere cyongeweho ubunini bwo gutangaza. Kwinjizamo moderi zigoramye nka Graham, Barbie Ferreira, Iskra Lawrence nabandi byiyongera kumikorere iheruka mumitekerereze myiza.
Ariko, plus-size moderi iracyafite ikibazo cyubwinshi. Moderi yumukara, Latina na Aziya irabura cyane mubitekerezo byingenzi. Ikindi kibazo cyo kureba ni umubiri utandukanye. Ubwinshi bwa plus-size moderi ifite isaha-ikirahure ishusho kandi iragereranijwe neza. Kimwe nijwi ryuruhu, umubiri uza muburyo butandukanye. Moderi ifite ishusho ya pome cyangwa ibimenyetso birambuye birambuye ntabwo byashyizweho umukono cyangwa kugaragara nkibigaragara. Byongeye kandi, hari kandi ikibazo cyo kuranga moderi zigoramye nkizo.
Kurugero, muri 2010, Myla Dalbesio yagaragaye nkicyitegererezo mubukangurambaga bwimbere ya Calvin Klein. Ku bunini bwa Amerika 10, abantu benshi bagaragaje ko mubyukuri atari wongeyeho ubunini. Ubusanzwe, ibirango by'imyambarire byanditseho imyenda yubunini bwa 14 na hejuru. Mugihe cyo kwerekana imiterere, ijambo rikubiyemo ubunini bwa 8 no hejuru.
Hamwe no gutandukanya kwitiranya, ahari niyo mpamvu moderi ya curvier ikunda Robyn Lawley hamagara inganda kureka inyongera-nini ya label. Mu kiganiro Lawley yagiranye na Ositaraliya 2014, yagize ati: "Ku giti cyanjye, nanga ijambo 'plus-size'. Ati: "Birasekeje kandi birasebanya - bishyira abagore hasi kandi babashyiraho ikirango."
Moderi yo Guhindura
Mumyaka yashize, moderi ya transgender nka Hari Nef na Andreja Pejic bakubise amaso. Bageze mu bukangurambaga ku bicuruzwa nka Gucci, Makiya Iteka na Kenneth Cole. Umunyamerika ukomoka muri Berezile Lea T. yakoraga nk'isura ya Givenchy mugihe Riccardo Tisci yakoraga kuri marike. Icyitonderwa ariko, moderi ya transgender yamabara yabuze cyane iyo bigeze kumyambarire yimyambarire.
Twabonye kandi moderi ya transgender igenda muri Fashion Week. Marc Jacobs yerekanye imideli itatu ya transgender mu gitaramo cye cyizuba-cyi 2017 mugihe cyicyumweru cyimyambarire ya New York. Ariko, nkumwarimu wa Columbia Jack Halberstam agira ati: Ibigaragara byose ntabwo biganisha mubyerekezo bitera imbere. Rimwe na rimwe usanga bigaragara gusa. ”
Ibyiringiro by'ejo hazaza
Iyo urebye neza inganda zerekana imiterere nubudasa, tugomba no gushimira abari mubucuruzi babibona neza. Kuva kubanditsi b'ikinyamakuru kugeza kubashushanya, hariho amazina menshi azwi ashaka gusunika byinshi. Umuyobozi wa Casting James Scully muri Werurwe yajyanye kuri Instagram gushinja ikirango cy’igifaransa Lanvin gusaba "kutagaragarizwa abagore b’ibara". Scully yanagaragaje mu kiganiro na Business of Fashion mu 2016 ko umufotozi yanze kurasa umunyamideli kuko yari umwirabura.
Abashushanya nka Christian Siriano na Olivier Rousteing ya Balmain ikunze kwerekana moderi yamabara mubyerekanwa byabo cyangwa kwiyamamaza. Kandi ibinyamakuru nka Teen Vogue nabyo bikubiyemo imiterere itandukanye kandi bitwikiriye inyenyeri. Turashobora kandi gutanga inguzanyo nka Jourdan Dunn abavuga nabi ivangura rishingiye ku moko mu nganda. Dunn yatangaje mu 2013 ko umuhanzi wo kwisiga wera adashaka kumukoraho kubera ibara ryuruhu rwe.
Turashobora kandi kureba mubindi bigo nka Slay Models (igereranya moderi ya transgender) hamwe na Anti-Agency (isinya moderi idasanzwe) kuburyo butandukanye. Ikintu kimwe kirasobanutse. Kugirango ubudasa butandukanye mubyitegererezo bigerweho neza, abantu bakeneye gukomeza kuvuga kandi bafite ubushake bwo gufata amahirwe.