Kwemakore, indasitiri yemafashoni yave ichishoropodzwa nekuda kwemaitiro asina kunaka anosanganisira kukanda mamodheru akatetepa uye vasikana vari pasi pemakore gumi nemasere mumitambo yemitambo nemishandirapamwe zvakafanana. Nechiziviso chechangobva kuitika chekuti fashoni inoungana Kering neLVMH vakabatana pane modhi yehutano charter, yakaita mafungu muindasitiri. Zvikuru, nhau idzi dzinouya kusati kwaitwa mutemo weFrance unodzora mamodheru 'BMIs muna Gumiguru.
Chikamu chegwaro iri chinoti vakadzi vane saizi 32 (kana 0 muUS) vacharambidzwa kutambiswa. Mamodheru achafanirwawo kuendesa gwaro rekurapa rinoratidza kuti vane hutano hwakanaka pamberi pekupfura kana runway show. Pamusoro pezvo, mamodheru ari pasi pemakore gumi nematanhatu-okura haagone kuhaiwa.
Kutanga Kunonoka Kuchinja
Pfungwa yekutonga muindasitiri yekuenzanisira yave iri nyaya inopisa mumakore achangopfuura. Iyo Model Alliance yakavambwa naSara Ziff muna 2012, isangano risingabatsiri rine chinangwa chekuchengetedza mhando muNew York. Saizvozvowo, France yakapfuura pamutemo mutemo muna 2015 waida kuti muenzaniso uve neBMI yeinenge 18. Agents uye mafashoni edzimba vanogona kutarisana ne75,000 euros mufaindi uye kunyange nguva yejeri.
Nguva pfupi yapfuura, iyo CFDA (Kanzuru yeFashoni Vagadziri veAmerica) yakapa nhungamiro yehutano iyo yaisanganisira kugovera chikafu chine hutano uye svutugadzike paseti. Mienzaniso yakaratidza kuva nehosha yekudya inokurudzirwa kutsvaka rubatsiro rwenyanzvi. Kunyangwe America isati yapasa chero modhi yemitemo yehutano yakafanana neyeFrance; aya mazano akanaka ekutanga nawo.
Kunyangwe mabhureki achipika kutarisa kune mamwe mamodheru ane hutano, pave paine zviitiko zvakashata zvakashambadzirwa mumakore achangopfuura. Somuenzaniso, muna February 2017, model casting agent James Scully akapomera Balenciaga achidzinga vatungamiri vemhando dzisina kunaka. Sekureva kwaScully, mamodheru anopfuura zana nemakumi mashanu akasiiwa mumatanho kweanopfuura maawa matatu asina chiedza chekuchengetedza mafoni avo. Kana iri CFDA, akati wandei mamodheru ari pasi pemakore gumi nematanhatu akafamba nzira dzekumhanya muNew York kunyangwe nhungamiro yavo mitsva.
Kutamba Mitemo
Nemitemo iripo yekuve nemamodheru pazviremu zvine hutano, kune nzira dzekucheka mitemo. Muna 2015, modhi isingazivikanwe yakataura neThe Observer nezve kushandisa uremu hwakavanzika kusangana nemirau. “Ndakaita Fashion Week kuSpain mushure mekunge vashandisa mutemo wakafanana uye masangano akawana gwara. Vakatipa zvipfeko zvemukati zveSpanx kuti zvipfeke nemasaga ejecha akaremerwa saka vasikana vakaonda kupfuura vese vaive ne‘utano’ huremu pachikero. Ndakatoona vachiisa simbi mubvudzi ravo.” Iyo modhi yakaenderera mberi ichiti modhi dzinofanirwa kunge dzave nemakore gumi nemasere vasati vatora chikamu muindasitiri iyi kuti vape nguva yekuti miviri yavo ikure.Paivawo nenyaya yemuenzaniso Ulrikke Hoyer ; uyo akati akadzingwa paLouis Vuitton show nekuti "akakura kwazvo". Zvinonzi, vashandi vekukandira vakati "aive nedumbu rakazvimba", "chiso chakazvimba" uye akarairwa "kunwa mvura chete kwemaawa makumi maviri nemana anotevera". Kutaura kupokana nemhando huru yemhando yepamusoro saLouis Vuitton pasina mubvunzo ichave nemhedzisiro pabasa rake. "Ndinoziva nekutaura nyaya yangu uye kutaura kunze, ndiri kuisa zvese panjodzi, asi handina basa nazvo," akadaro mutsamba yeFacebook.
Ko Kurambidza Skinny Models Chii Chakanyanya Kunyanya?
Kunyangwe, kuona mhando dzine hutano panzira yekumhanya kunoonekwa sekuhwina kukuru, vamwe vanobvunza kana iri nzira yekunyadzisa muviri. Kushandiswa kweBMI sechiratidzo chehutano kwave kuchipisa nharo mumakore achangopfuura. Ndichiri pakuratidzira panguva yeNew York Fashion Week, mutambi uye aimbova muenzaniso Jaime King akataura pamusoro pezvinonzi skinny model kurambidzwa. "Ini ndinofunga zvingave zvisina kunaka kutaura kuti kana uri zero saizi, saka haugone kushanda, sekunge zvisina kunaka kutaura kuti kana uri saizi gumi nematanhatu, haugone kushanda," mutambi akaudza. iyo New York Post.
“Ndiri mutete chaizvo, uye dzimwe nguva zvakandiomera kuti ndiwedzere uremu,” akawedzera. “Kana vanhu vepa Instagram vachiti, ‘Enda unodya hamburger,’ ndakaita senge, ‘Wow, vari kundinyadzisa muviri nekuda kwechimiro changu.’” Mashoko akadai akatsinhirwawo nemamwe mamodeli munguva yakapfuura. vakadai saSara Sampaio naBridget Malcolm.
Ramangwana Rakamira Sei?
Pasinei nematambudziko ayo, indasitiri yemafashoni iri kutora matanho ekugadzira nharaunda ine hutano kune mamodheru. Kuti mitemo iyi ichaita shanduko huru zvicharamba zvichionekwa. Izvo zvichatora kwete chete masangano ekuenzanisira asi fashoni dzimba ivo pachavo vachitevera zvinodiwa. Mutemo weEuropean Union unorambidza ukuru 0 mienzaniso haizoiti kusvika October 1st, 2017. Zvisinei, iyo indasitiri yatotaura.
Antoine Arlnault, Berluti CEO, akaudza Bhizinesi reFashoni. "Ndinonzwa kuti neimwe nzira, [mamwe mabhureki] achafanira kutevedzera nekuti mamodeli haabvumi kubatwa neimwe nzira nemhando uye neimwe nzira nevamwe" anodaro. "Kana vatungamiriri vaviri veindasitiri vakashandisa mitemo inonzwisisika, vanozofanira kutevedzera. Vanonyatso kugamuchirwa kujoina kunyangwe vakanonoka kuenda kumabiko. "