Kana zvasvika kune nyika yekuenzanisira, kusiyana kwakauya kure kure mumakore akati wandei apfuura. Kubva pakuratidza mamodheru eruvara kusvika kune akatevedzana saizi kana asiri mabhinari modhi, kune kufambira mberi kwechokwadi. Nekudaro, pachine nzira refu yekuenda kana zvasvika pakuita modhiya nhanho yekutamba. Munguva yekudonha kwemwaka we 2017 runway mwaka, 27.9% yemamodhi emigwagwa yaive mhando dzeruvara, sekureva kweThe Fashion Spot's diversity report. Yakanga iri kuvandudzwa kwe2.5% kubva mumwaka wapfuura.
Uye nei kusiyana-siyana mukuenzanisira kwakakosha? Chiyero chakagadzwa neindasitiri chinogona kukanganisa zvakanyanya vasikana vadiki vanoshanda semienzaniso. Semuvambi weModel Alliance, Sara Ziff inotaura nezveongororo ye2017 yekuenzanisira, "Vanopfuura 62 muzana [yemhando dzakabvunzurudzwa] dzakati dzakakumbirwa kuderedza uremu kana kuchinja chimiro kana hukuru hwavo nesangano ravo kana mumwe munhu muindasitiri." Shanduko yekuona pamusoro pechimiro chemuviri inogona kubatsira kuita kuti indasitiri ive nani kune mamodheru pamwe nevasikana vanonzwisisika vachitarisa pamifananidzo.
Black Models & Diversity
Chimwe chikamu chekuenzanisira chakavandudzika ndechekukandwa kwemhando dzemavara. Kana zvasvika kune vatema modhi, kune akati wandei pane inosimuka nyeredzi. Mazita akadai Imaan Hammam, Linesy Montero uye Adwoa Aboah dzakatora nzvimbo mumwaka ichangopfuura. Zvisinei, munhu anogona kuona kuti mazhinji emhando idzi akareruka muganda reganda. Nepo kushandisa mamwe mamodheru eruvara kunofanirwa kurumbidzwa, chokwadi chinoramba chiripo chekuti vakadzi vatema vanouya mumhando dzakasiyana dzeganda.
Ikoko kunogonawo kuva nenyaya ye tokenism mumhizha. Semutungamiri wekukanda asingazivikanwe akaudza Glossy muna 2017, inotanga nehuwandu hwemhando dzemavara dziripo. “Semuenzaniso, mamwe masangano ezvekumodhera ane madzinza mashoma ekutanga, uye mapakeji eshoo yefashoni yevhiki anogona kunge aine mashoma. Vanowanzo sanganisira, sevasikana vaviri kusvika vatatu veAfrica-America, mumwe wekuAsia uye makumi maviri kana kupfuura emhando dzeCaucasus.
Chanel Iman akaudzawo The Times muna 2013 nezve kubata nekurapwa kwakafanana. “Nguva shomanana ndaipembedzwa nevagadziri vemifananidzo vaindiudza kuti, ‘Tatowana mumwe musikana wechitema. Hatichakudi.’ Ndakanzwa ndaora mwoyo zvikuru.”
Kusimuka kweAsia Models
Sezvo China yave mutambi mukuru muhupfumi hwenyika, wakamboona kuwedzera kwemhando dzeEast Asia. Kubva 2008 kusvika 2011, mhando dzakadai Liu Wen, Ming Xi uye Sui He yakawedzera muindasitiri. Vasikana vakaita mishandirapamwe mikuru pamwe chete neakavha emagazini epamusoro emafashoni. Zvisinei, nekufamba kwemakore, kusundidzira uku kuona zviso zvakawanda zveAsia mufashoni kwakaratidzika kunge kuri kuderera.
Mumisika zhinji yeAsia, mhando dzinovhara magazini kana kuoneka mumashambadziro ekushambadzira ndeyeCaucasian. Pamusoro pezvo, zvigadzirwa zvekugezesa zvine mukurumbira munzvimbo dzakaita seChina, India neJapan. Midzi yechishuvo cheganda rakanaka inogona kusungirirwa kunyange munguva dzekare uye yakadzika midzi yekirasi system. Kunyange zvakadaro, pane chimwe chinhu chinotambudza pamusoro pemafungiro ekushandisa makemikari kuchinja ganda reganda muna 2017.
Uye mamodheru ekuSouth Asia ane mavara akasviba kana makuru maficha anenge asipo muindasitiri iyi. Muchokwadi, apo Vogue India yakafumura chivharo chayo chegore regumi chine nyeredzi Kendall Jenner , vaverengi vakawanda vakatora social media kuratidza kuodzwa mwoyo kwavo. Mumwe mutsinhiri paInstagram yemagazini iyi akanyora kuti: “Uyu wanga uri mukana wekunyatsopemberera nhaka netsika dzechiIndia. Kuratidza vanhu veIndia. Ndinovimba muchaita sarudzo dziri nani kuenda kumberi, kuve kurudziro kuvanhu veIndia. "
Curvy & Plus-Size Models
Kune yayo Chikumi 2011 chinyorwa, Vogue Italia yakatanga nyaya yayo yecurvy ine mhando dzekuwedzera-saizi chete. Vasikana vekuvhara vaisanganisira Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine uye Robyn Lawley . Izvi zvakaratidza kutanga kwema curvy models kutora muindasitiri yemafashoni. Kunyangwe kufambira mberi kwave kunonoka, takaona Ashley Graham achidzika chivharo cha2016 cheSports Illustrated: Swimsuit Issue, ichimaka yekutanga plus-size modhi kuti ifadze chinyorwa. Iko kusanganisirwa kwema curvy modhi akadai saGraham, Barbie Ferreira, Iskra Lawrence nevamwe vanowedzera kune ichangoburwa kufamba kwemuviri positivity.
Nekudaro, plus-saizi modelling ichine nyaya nekusiyana. Vatema, Latina neAsia modhi dzinoshaikwa zvakanyanya kubva munhoroondo huru. Imwe nyaya yekutarisa ndeyekusiyana kwemuviri. Mazhinji emhando ye-plus-size ane awa-girazi maumbirwo uye akanyatso kuenzana. Sezvakaita neganda, miviri inouya mumhando dzakasiyana siyana zvakare. Mamodheru ane maapuro maumbirwo kana anooneka akatambanudzwa mamaki haawanzo kusainwa kana kuratidzwa zvakanyanya. Pamusoro pezvo, pane zvakare mubvunzo wekunyora ma curvy modhi seakadaro.
Somuenzaniso, muna 2010. Myla Dalbesio yakaratidzwa semuenzaniso mumushandirapamwe weCalvin Klein Underwear. Pahukuru 10 US, vanhu vazhinji vakaratidza kuti anga asiri kuwedzera saizi. Sechinyakare, mhando dzemafashoni dzinoisa zvipfeko zvekuwedzera-saizi saizi 14 zvichikwira. Ndichiri pakuenzanisira, izwi rinovhara saizi 8 zvichikwira.
Nemusiyano unovhiringidza, pamwe ndosaka ma curvier modhi achida Robyn Lawley daidzira kuti indasitiri idonhedze plus-size label. "Ini pachangu, ndinovenga izwi rekuti 'plus-size'," Lawley akadaro muhurukuro ya2014 neCosmopolitan Australia. "Zvinosekesa uye zvinoshoreka - zvinoisa vakadzi pasi uye zvinoisa zita pavari."
Transgender Models
Mumakore achangopfuura, transgender modhi akadai Hari Nef uye Andreja Pejic vabata chitarisiko. Vakatora mishandirapamwe yemhando dzakadai seGucci, Makeup Forever naKenneth Cole. Mutevedzeri weBrazil Lea T. akashanda sechiso cheGivenchy panguva yeRiccardo Tisci pairi pachikwata. Zvinocherechedzwa kuti, transgender modhi dzeruvara dzinoshaikwa zvakanyanya kana zvasvika kune akajairwa fashoni mhando.
Isu takaonawo transgender modhi ichifamba paFashoni Vhiki. Marc Jacobs akaratidzira matatu transgender modhi pane yake yekudonha-yechando 2017 show panguva yeNew York Fashion Week. Nekudaro, seColumbia purofesa Jack Halberstam inotaura nezvezviri kuitika munguva pfupi yapfuura munyaya ye<em>New York Times, kuti: “Zvinofadza kuti munyika mune miviri inotakura miviri miviri inooneka, asi munhu anofanira kungwarira zvazvinoreva kupfuura izvozvo uye nezvokutaura zvematongerwo enyika. Kuonekwa kwese hakusi kwese kunotungamira munzira inofambira mberi. Dzimwe nguva zvinongoonekwa chete."
Tariro Yeramangwana
Kana tikatarisa zvakanyanya indasitiri yekuenzanisira uye kusiyana, isu tinofanirawo kurumbidza avo vari mubhizinesi vanoriwana nemazvo. Kubva kune vapepeti vemagazini kusvika kune vanogadzira, kune akawanda mazita ane mukurumbira ari kutsvaga kusundira kusiyana kwakawanda. Casting director James Scully akatora pa Instagram munaKurume achipomera French brand Lanvin nekukumbira kuti "kusaunzwa nevakadzi vane ruvara". Scully akaburitsawo muhurukuro neBusiness of Fashion muna 2016 kuti mutori wemifananidzo akaramba kupfura modhi nekuti aive mutema.
Vagadziri vakaita se Christian Siriano uye Olivier Rousteing yeBalmain kazhinji inokanda mhando dzemavara mumitambo yavo yekumhanya kana mishandirapamwe. Uye magazini akadai saTeen Vogue zvakare anombundira akasiyana siyana emhando uye anovhara nyeredzi. Tinogonawo kukwereta mhando dzakadai Jourdan Dunn vanotaura vachipesana nezviitiko zverusaruraganda muindasitiri. Dunn akaburitsa muna 2013 kuti chena makeup artist aisada kubata kumeso kwake nekuda kweganda rake.
Tinogona zvakare kutarisa mamwe masangano akadai seSlay Models (inomiririra transgender modhi) neAnti-Agency (iyo inosaina mamodheru asiri echinyakare) kune dzimwe sarudzo dzakasiyana. Chinhu chimwe chakajeka. Kuti kusiyana-siyana mukuenzanisira kuve nani, vanhu vanofanirwa kuramba vachitaura uye kuda kutora mikana.