Kangangeminyaka, imboni yefashoni ibigxekwa ngenxa yezenzo ezingezizo ezibandakanya ukuphoswa kweemodeli ezibhityileyo kakhulu kunye namantombazana angaphantsi kweminyaka eli-18 kwimiboniso yeenqwelo moya kunye namaphulo ngokufanayo. Ngesibhengezo samva nje sokuba iimbumba zefashoni i-Kering kunye ne-LVMH badityaniswe nemibutho kwimodeli yetshatha yezempilo, yenza amaza kulo lonke ishishini. Ngokucacileyo, ezi ndaba ziza ngaphambi kokuphunyezwa komthetho waseFransi olawula iimodeli ze-BMIs ngo-Oktobha.
Inxalenye yalo mgaqo-nkqubo ithi abasetyhini abakubukhulu obungama-32 (okanye u-0 e-US) baya kuthintelwa ukuphoswa. Iimodeli kwakhona kuya kufuneka zibonise isatifikethi sikagqirha esiqinisekisa ukuba basempilweni entle phambi kokudubula okanye umboniso wendlela yeenqwelo-moya. Ukongeza, iimodeli ezingaphantsi kweminyaka eyi-16 ubudala azinakuqeshwa.
Isiqalo esicothayo sokutshintsha
Ingcamango yokulawula kwishishini lemodeli ibe yinto eshushu kwiminyaka yamuva. I-Model Alliance eyasungulwa nguSara Ziff kwi-2012, ngumbutho ongenzi nzuzo ojolise ukukhusela iimodeli eNew York. Ngokufanayo, iFransi idlulise ngokusemthethweni i-bill kwi-2015 efuna imodeli ukuba ibe ne-BMI ubuncinane ubuncinane be-18. Ii-Agents kunye nezindlu zefashini zingabhekana ne-75,000 ye-euro kwiintlawulo kunye nexesha lejele.
Kungekudala emva koko, i-CFDA (iBhunga labayili beFashoni yaseMelika) yakhupha izikhokelo zempilo ezibandakanya ukubonelela ngezidlo ezinempilo kunye namashwamshwam kwiseti. Iimodeli ezichonge ukuba nengxaki yokutya zicetyiswa ukuba zifune uncedo lweengcali. Nangona iMelika ingekadluli nayiphi na imodeli yemithetho yentlalontle efana neFransi; ezi zingcebiso ezilungileyo ukuqala ngazo.
Ngaphandle kweempawu ezithembisayo zokujonga kwiimodeli ezisempilweni ngakumbi, kukho iziganeko ezibhengezwe kakubi kwiminyaka yakutshanje. Ngokomzekelo, ngoFebruwari 2017, i-ejenti yokuphosa imodeli UJames Scully utyhola u-Balenciaga ekhupha abalawuli kwiimodeli eziphethe kakubi. NgokukaScully, ngaphezulu kweemodeli ze-150 zashiyeka kwizitepsi ngaphezulu kweeyure ezintathu ngaphandle kokukhanya kokugcina iifowuni zabo. Ngokuphathelele i-CFDA, inani leemodeli ezingaphantsi kweminyaka eyi-16 ziye zahamba ngeendlela zeenqwelomoya eNew York ngaphandle kwezikhokelo zabo ezitsha.
Ukutsiba iMithetho
Ngemigaqo ekhoyo yokuba neemodeli kubunzima obunempilo, kukho iindlela zokuvala imithetho. Kwi-2015, imodeli engaziwa yathetha ne-Observer malunga nokusebenzisa izisindo ezifihliweyo ukuhlangabezana nemimiselo. “Ndenze iVeki yeFashoni eSpain emva kokuba benyanzelise umthetho ofanayo kwaye iiarhente zifumene umkroba. Basinika impahla yangaphantsi ye-Spanx ukuba sifake iingxowa zesanti ezinobunzima ukuze amantombazana abhityileyo abe nobunzima ‘obusempilweni’ ezikalini. Ndababona befaka iintsimbi ezinweleni zabo.” Lo mzekelo uphinde wathi iimodeli kufuneka zibe neminyaka eyi-18 ngaphambi kokuthatha inxaxheba kwishishini ukuvumela ixesha lokuba imizimba yabo ikhule.Kwakukho nemeko yemodeli Ulrikke Hoyer ; owathi wagxothwa kumboniso kaLouis Vuitton ngokuba "mkhulu kakhulu". Ngokurhanelekayo, iiarhente zokuphosa zithi "unesisu esidumbe kakhulu", "ubuso obudumbile" kwaye wayalelwa ukuba "asele amanzi kuphela kwiiyure ezingama-24 ezizayo". Ukuthetha ngokuchasene ne-brand enkulu yobunewunewu efana noLouis Vuitton ngokungathandabuzekiyo kuya kuba nefuthe kumsebenzi wakhe. “Ndiyazi ngokuthetha ibali lam kwaye ndithethe phandle ndibeka umngcipheko kuyo yonke into, kodwa andikhathali,” utshilo kwiposti kaFacebook.
Ngaba ukuvala iiModeli zeSkinny Yeyona nto ilungileyo?
Nangona, ukubona iimodeli ezisempilweni kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya kubonwa njengoloyiso olukhulu, abanye bayabuza ukuba ngaba luhlobo lokuhlazisa umzimba. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-BMI njengesalathisi sezempilo kuye kwaxoxwa ngokushushu kwiminyaka yakutshanje. Ngelixa kumboniso ngeVeki yeMfashini yaseNew York, umlingisi kunye nowayesakuba ngumzekelo uJaime King wathetha ngento ebizwa ngokuba yi-skinny model ban. "Ndicinga ukuba kuya kuba yinto engalunganga kakhulu ukuthi ukuba usayizi we-zero, awukwazi ukusebenza, njengokuba akulunganga ukuthi ukuba unobungakanani be-16, awukwazi ukusebenza," utshilo umlingisi. kwiPosi yaseNew York.
“Mna ngokwendalo ndibhityile ngokwenene, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha kunzima kum ukuba ndityebe,” wongeze watsho. Xa abantu ku-Instagram besithi, 'Hamba uye kutya ihamburger,' ndiye ngathi, 'Yhuu, bandenza iintloni emzimbeni ngenxa yendlela endikhangeleka ngayo.' njengoSara Sampaio kunye noBridget Malcolm.
Lisiphathele Ntoni Ikamva?
Nangona imingeni yayo, imboni yefashoni ithatha amanyathelo okwenza indawo enempilo ngakumbi kwiimodeli. Enoba le mithetho iya kwenza utshintsho olukhulu kusini na kusaza kubonakala. Ayizukuthatha kuphela ii-arhente zemodeli kodwa izindlu zefashoni ngokwazo zilandela iimfuno. Umthetho osemthethweni we-European Union ovimbela ubungakanani beemodeli ze-0 aziyi kusebenza kude kube ngo-Oktobha 1, 2017. Nangona kunjalo, imboni sele ithethile.
U-Antoine Arlnault, i-CEO yaseBerluti, uxelele iShishini leFashoni. “Ndivakalelwa kukuba ngandlel’ ithile, [ezinye iibrendi] kuya kufuneka zithobele kuba iimodeli aziyi kwamkela ukuphathwa ngendlela ethile ziimpawu kunye nenye indlela nabanye” utshilo. Nje ukuba iinkokeli ezimbini zeshishini zisebenzisa imithetho efanelekileyo, kuya kufuneka zithobele. Bamkelekile ngakumbi ukujoyina nokuba bafike emva kwexesha epatini. ”