Kwinkumbulo kaKarl Lagerfeld: uMyili weFashoni onguMfanekiso otshintshe uShishino

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UKarl Lagerfeld Ubambe imakrofoni

Ukusweleka kuka-Karl Lagerfeld kwashukumisa ishishini lefashoni kwaye kwashiya wonke umntu kwihlabathi lefashoni ekhathazekile. Nokuba awukhange uwulandele ngokusondeleyo umsebenzi wendoda, kunokwenzeka ukuba uyawuthanda okanye unokuba namaqhekeza ambalwa eempawu ebolekise ngazo iitalente zayo. Izindlu zefashoni ezinje ngoTommy Hilfiger, Fendi, kunye noChanel zihonjiswe ngamaqhekeza ayilwe yile ndoda.

Kweli nqaku, siza kujonga kubomi balo myili kwaye sinike inkcazo emfutshane ngezinto ezimangalisayo azenzileyo kwihlabathi lefashoni. Nasekufeni, uyilo lwakhe lwasentsomini luya kuhlala lukho kwaye lunike inkuthazo kubayili befashoni abatsha abangena kweli shishini. Ubhubhele eParis ngoFebruwari 19, 2019. Isizathu sokufa sabhengezwa iingxaki zomhlaza wepancreatic.

Ubomi bokuqala bukaKarl Lagerfeld

UKarl Otto Lagerfeld wazalelwa eHamburg, eJamani, kukholelwa ukuba wazalwa ngoSeptemba 10, 1933. Umyili we-avant-garde akazange abonakalise usuku lwakhe lokuzalwa lwangempela, ngoko oku kuqikelelo olucocekileyo. I-"T" yachithwa egameni lakhe ngeenzame zokuvakala ngakumbi kwishishini.

Uyise wayengusomashishini omkhulu kwaye wenza ubutyebi obunempilo ngokuzisa ubisi oluncitshisiweyo kwisizwe saseJamani. UKarl kunye naba bazalwana babini, uThea noMarta, bakhule bezityebi kwaye abazali babo babakhuthaza ukuba bathathe inxaxheba kwimisebenzi yengqondo. Baye baxoxe ngezihloko eziphambili ezifana nefilosofi kunye nomculo mhlawumbi ngexesha labo lokutya, ngakumbi becinga ukuba umama wabo wayengumdlali wevayolin.

Kwakusebancinci apho uLagerfeld wabonisa uthando lwefashoni kunye nobuchule bokuyila. Njengomfana oselula, wayesika iifoto kwiimagazini zefashoni, kwaye wayesaziwa ngokugxeka into awayeyinxibile abo wayefunda nabo esikolweni ngalo naluphi na usuku. Kwaye kwiminyaka yeshumi elivisayo, uKarl wayenokuntywila kuqala kwihlabathi elinomdla nelinamandla lefashoni ephezulu.

Iziqalo eziStylish

Njengababoni abaninzi, wayesazi ukuba ikamva lakhe lalikude ngaphaya kweHamburg, eJamani. Wagqiba ekubeni afudukele kwindawo apho ifashoni iyinkosi-Paris. Wafumana imvume yabazali bakhe kunye nentsikelelo yabo waza waya kwiSixeko esidumileyo seZibane. Wayeneminyaka elishumi elinesine ngelo xesha.

Wayehleli apho iminyaka emibini kuphela emifutshane xa wayengenisa imizobo yakhe kunye neesampulu zeswotshi zelaphu kukhuphiswano loyilo. Akumangalisi ukuba, wathatha indawo yokuqala kudidi lweedyasi, kwaye wadibana nomnye ophumeleleyo onokulazi igama lakhe: Yves Saint Laurent.

Akuzange kube kudala emva kokuba uLagerfeld osemncinci esebenza ixesha elizeleyo nomyili waseFransi uBalmain, eqala njengomncedisi omncinci emva koko waba ngumfundi wakhe. Isikhundla sasifuna ngokomzimba nangokwengqondo, kwaye imboni encinci yasebenza nzima kuyo iminyaka emithathu. Emva koko, wathatha umsebenzi kwenye indlu yefashoni ngaphambi kokuba enze isigqibo esinesibindi sokuhamba yedwa ngo-1961.

Impumelelo kuKarl

Ngombulelo, kodwa akumangalisi ukuba, uKarl wayenomsebenzi omninzi okhoyo kuye kunye noyilo lwakhe oluhle. Wayeza kuyila ingqokelela yezindlu ezifana noCloe, Fendi (eneneni wangeniswa ukuba ajonge ulwahlulo loboya benkampani) kunye nabanye abayili bamagama amakhulu.

Umyili uKarl Lagerfeld

Uye waziwa phakathi kweenkokeli zeshishini kunye nabangaphakathi njengendoda enokuthi ivelise izinto ezintsha kwaye idale uyilo oluzenzekelayo kunye nolo mzuzu. Nangona kunjalo, wafumana into entsha kuyo yonke indawo, iimarike ezithengisayo kunye nokukhwela ibhayisekile ilokhwe emidala yomtshato, ezenza into entsha kwaye intle ngakumbi.

Ngeminyaka yama-80 nangaphezulu

Kwiminyaka elishumi eyintsomi yee-'80's, uKarl wayesaziwa njengomdlali ophambili kushishino lwefashoni. Wayethandwa phakathi kwamalungu oshicilelo, owalandela le ndoda kwaye wabhala ubomi bakhe boluntu kunye nezinto ezithandayo ezihlala zitshintsha. Wagcina abahlobo abanomdla, omnye obalaseleyo ngumculi uAndy Warhol.

Wazenzela igama lokuba ngumyili “wokuqeshwa”. Akanakuze ahlale nomyili omnye ixesha elide-wayeyaziwa ngokusuka kwelinye ilebula ukuya kwelinye, esasaza italente yakhe kulo lonke ishishini.

Wenza irekhodi yempumelelo ebeka umgangatho ophezulu wabaqulunqi abatsha nabanamava ngokufanayo ukuba banqwenela. Ileyibhile i-Chanel yasindiswa yindoda xa yenza oko bambalwa ababenokucinga ukuba yabuyisela ileyibhile ephantse yafa kubomi obudlamkileyo kunye neqoqo elilungele ukunxiba lefashoni ephezulu.

Kwakumalunga nelo xesha apho uLagerfeld wadala kwaye wasungula ileyibhile yakhe, inkuthazo yakhe yayiyiloo nto wayibiza ngokuba “kukwabelana ngesondo kwengqondo”. Inxalenye yangaphambili mhlawumbi yavela ebuntwaneni bakhe apho ubukrelekrele babukhuthazwa, kwaye le yokugqibela mhlawumbi yavela ekuboneni ifashoni yazo zonke iintlobo kwiindlela zokubaleka kwihlabathi liphela kumanqanaba ahlukeneyo okuthozama.

I-brand yakhula kwaye yaphuhliswa, yafumana udumo lokuba nomgangatho wokuthunga kunye neziqwenga ezinesibindi ezilungele ukunxiba. Abathengi banokudlala i-cardigans ezintle, umzekelo, ezenziwe ngemibala eqaqambileyo. Ileyibhile ekugqibeleni yathengiswa kwinkampani eyaziwayo uTommy Hilfiger kwi-2005.

Njengamagcisa amaninzi abalaseleyo, ifashoni yayingekuphela kwehlabathi apho wayebonakalisa iitalente zakhe. Umsebenzi wakhe wawela kwiindawo zokufota kunye nefilimu, kwaye waqhubeka nokusebenza nzima kunye nokugcina ishedyuli egcweleyo.

Kwakungowama-2011 ukuba wayila i-glassware ye-Orrefors esekwe eSweden, waze watyikitya isivumelwano sokwenza umgca wempahla wevenkile yesebe leMacy. Wathi uLagerfeld ngoJulayi 2011, “Intsebenziswano luhlobo lovavanyo lwendlela yokwenza olu hlobo lwempahla kuluhlu lwamaxabiso…I-Macy's yeyona venkile ifanelekileyo yesebe e-US, apho wonke umntu anokufumana into ayifunayo ngaphandle kokonakalisa ibhajethi yakhe. .”

Kwakuloo nyaka mnye awathi wawongwa ngembasa yeGordon Parks Foundation njengendlela yokubona umsebenzi wakhe njengomyili wefashoni, umfoti, kunye nomenzi wefilimu. ULagerfeld uphendule kweli wonga liphezulu ngokuthi, "Ndinebhongo, kwaye ndinombulelo kakhulu, kodwa andikagqibi." Uqhube wathi uye wachukunyiswa ziifoto zeePaki ngelixa wayengumfundi.

Kwaye mhlawumbi okona kulungileyo kuko konke, wavula eyakhe ivenkile eQatar ngo-2015, iziqwenga zezindlu ezidumileyo ezikhoyo ukuze zithengwe.

Ukufa kukaKarl Lagerfeld

Njengoko le ndoda yayisondela phakathi kwiminyaka yayo yama-80, uLagerfeld waqalisa ukucothisa umsebenzi wakhe. Abangaphakathi kwimizi-mveliso babenexhala xa engakhange abonakale de kube sekupheleni kwemiboniso yefashoni yeChanel eParis ekuqaleni konyaka ka-2019, nto leyo eyathi yamenza wadinwa yindlu.

Akuzange kube kudala emva kokuba wasweleka, nge-19 kaFebruwari, 2019.

Udumo emva kokufa

Nasemva kokusweleka kwakhe, uKarl Lagerfeld usengundabamlonyeni kwihlabathi lefashoni.

Abaninzi babezibuza ukuba ngubani oza kumamkela ubutyebi bomyili obuqikelelwa kwi-195 lezigidi zeerandi. Impendulo ayikho enye ngaphandle kukaChoupette, ikati yaseBirman eyayithandwa kakhulu nguLagerfeld.

I-Choupette, ikati yakhe, ichazwe yi-NBC iindaba ukuba izuze enye yale mali. ULagerfeld wayekhe wathi kwixa elidlulileyo ikati yakhe "yindlalifa." "... Umntu oza kumnyamekela akayi kuba lusizi," watsho kudliwano-ndlebe luka-2015.

Waqesha iimpelesi ukuba zinyamekele isilwanyana-qabane sakhe asithandayo, kwaye wayesigqala njengomsebenzi osisigxina ngokwawo. UChoupette wayephila ubomi obutofotofo, kwaye namhlanje unabalandeli abamalunga nekota yesigidi se-Instagram kunye nabalandeli abangama-50,000 kwi-Twitter.

Oku akuthethi ukuba uChoupette wayengenayo imali yakhe ngaphambi kwelifa. Ikati ifumene ngaphezulu kwe-3 yezigidi zeerandi enkosi kwiigigi ezahlukeneyo zemodeli. Uya kongeza kwithamsanqa lakhe esele likho!

UKarl Lagerfeld kumboniso wefashoni waseChanel eShanghai. Ifoto: Imaginechina-Umhleli / Iifoto zeDiphozithi

Ingqokelela yokugqibela

Ngexesha lokubhala, ingqokelela yokugqibela kaKarl Lagerfeld yeChanel yaqala. Ichazwe ngabazimasi njengekhuthazwe lusuku oluhle lwasebusika oluchithwe kwilali enoxolo esentabeni kwaye yanikezelwa nge-5 kaMatshi ka-2019.

Ingqokelela ineempawu zoyilo ezifana ne-houndstooth, i-tartan, kunye neetshekhi ezinkulu. Iimodeli zahamba phakathi kwekhephu eliqhekezayo, zinxibe iisuti ze-tweed ezikhupha umoya wobudoda. Iibhulukhwe bezisikwe banzi kwaye zinxitywa esinqeni, njengoko uninzi luqhele ukwenziwa ngeebhulukhwe neejean zanamhlanje. Iziqwenga zongezwa ngezinto ezinje ngeekhola eziphakamileyo okanye iikhola zeshawl, okanye ii-capes ezincinci, kunye neenkcukacha ezinje nge-faux-fur lapels. Iibhatyi ze-tweed zihlanjululwe nge-braid engqindilili, yoboya, ishiywe ikrwada okanye ilukiweyo.

Ezinye zineekhola ezigqabhukileyo. Kwakukho neepullovers ezidityanisiweyo ezigqithisiweyo kwaye zithambile, kwaye iijezi ze-ski zavezwa ngemihombiso yekristale. Kwakukho neekhati ezihlotshiswe ngemifanekiso yeentaba ezintle ezikhuthazayo. Ingqokelela inokuchazwa ngcono njengomtshato othandekayo wokunxiba kwe-ski kunye nefashoni yasezidolophini. Iimodeli zikwayikwe ngobucwebe obukhulu, obunye bubonisa uyilo oludumileyo lwe-Double C oluluphawu lweChanel.

Ngokuqinisekileyo uKarl Lagerfeld uya kuphoswa xa kuziwa kwihlabathi lefashoni. Nangona kunjalo, inkumbulo yakhe iya kuhlala kwaye uya kuhlala ekhuthazekile xa kufikwa kubaqulunqi abatsha nabazayo. Impumelelo yakhe ngokuqinisekileyo iya kuba yenye yeencwadi zerekhodi. Ukufa kwakhe kwakuye kwazisa intlungu kwabaninzi, kodwa kwangaxeshanye ihlabathi lefashoni lalinethamsanqa lokuba netalente yakhe.

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