Udliwano-ndlebe lweeModeli eziPhakamileyo zeNcwadi kaMarcellas Reynolds

Anonim

UJeneil Williams kwiPhepha leNcwadi yeeModeli eziPhakamileyo. Ifoto: Txema Yeste

Ukutyhubela iminyaka, siye sabona iimodeli ezininzi ezimnyama ziba ziitrailblazers. Ukusuka okokuqala kuqweqwe lwemagazini ukuya kwimiboniso yeenqwelomoya kunye namaphulo, iyantlukwano ngumba obalulekileyo kushishino lwefashoni. Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, akukabikho ncwadi yobugcisa eneemodeli ezimnyama kuphela. Umbhali uMarcellas Reynolds, owaziwa ngokuba yintatheli kunye nentatheli yolonwabo, unika imbeko kubuhle namandla abo ngencwadi yakhe. Iimodeli eziPhakamileyo: I-Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion iquka imifanekiso yemifanekiso efana noNaomi Campbell, uBeverly Johnson, uPat Cleveland, kunye neenkwenkwezi ezintsha ezifana noJoan Smalls kunye no-Adut Akech. Ukongeza kwiifoto ezintle, izincoko ezivezayo kunye nodliwano-ndlebe zipapashwa. Kutshanje siye safumana ithuba lodliwano-ndlebe noReynolds kuhambo lokudala le ncwadi, ukuba ucinga ntoni ngekamva leyantlukwano, kunye nokuba kuya kubakho ukulandelelwa.

Kwathatha iminyaka esibhozo ukufumana Iimodeli eziPhezulu ipapashwe kuba abapapashi abaninzi bathi akukho ntengiso yencwadi echaza iimodeli ezimnyama.
-Marcellas Reynolds

Kwasothusa ukufunda ukuba akukhange kubekho ncwadi inikezelwe kwiimodeli ezimnyama ngaphambili, isenza lo msebenzi ubaluleke kakhulu. Ucinga ukuba kutheni kunjalo nje? Ngaba bekukho into ekhuthazayo yokudala le projekthi?

IiModeli eziPhakeme yincwadi yokuqala ye-ART enikezelwe kwiimodeli eziphezulu ezimnyama. Nangona kunjalo, kukho ezinye iincwadi ezinikezelwe kwiimodeli ezimnyama kodwa ezingekho kolu didi okanye kwesi sikali. Kuthathe iminyaka esibhozo ukupapashwa kweSupreme Models kuba abapapashi abaninzi bathi akukho ntengiso yencwadi echaza iimodeli ezimnyama. Ndaphefumlelwa ukuba ndibhale iiModeli eziPhakamileyo ekuphenduleni iVogue Model: Ubuso beFashion, incwadi ekhutshwe kwi-2011, enikezelwe kwiimodeli ezivele kwiBritish Vogue. Yayiquka kuphela imodeli ezimbini ezimnyama; U-Iman noNaomi Campbell.

Eyona nyaniso imangalisayo malunga neVogue Model yayikukungabikho kobuthixo uDonyale Luna, owayeyimodeli yokuqala emnyama ukuvela kwikhava kuyo NAYIPHI iVogue xa efika kwikhava yeBritish Vogue ngo-1966. Yiminyaka emihlanu ngaphambi kokuba iVogue Italia ibeke uCarol LaBrie. kuqweqwe lwayo, kunye neminyaka esibhozo ngaphambi kokuba iAmerican Vogue ibeke uBeverly Johnson kwiqweqwe layo. NgoAprili 19, 2011, mhla ndafumana incwadi ethi Vogue Model, ndagqiba ekubeni ndibhale iiSupreme Models ukuze ndinike abantu abantsundu imbeko abayifaneleyo. Ukuncoma kunye nokuvuma ukuba ezinye iincwadi zobugcisa ezifana neeModeli ze-Harper's Bazaar, iiModeli zempembelelo: Abasetyhini abangama-50 abaSeta kwakhona iSikhosi seFashoni, iModeli njengeMuse: iModeli yoMboniso, kunye neModeli yeVogue: Ubuso beFashoni abahoywanga ukwenza.

Beverly Johnson, ifotwe nguRico Puhlmann, Glamour, May 1973 Rico Puhlmann / Glamour © Condé Nast.

Chaza inkqubo yokukhetha imifanekiso yencwadi.

Ukuhlela, ukuhlela, ukuhlela! Kukho iifoto ezininzi ezintle kunye neempawu kwiiModeli eziPhakamileyo. Nje ukuba ndikhethe ukuba yeyiphi imodeli endinokuthi ndiyifake kwincwadi, eyayinzima kakhulu, ndakhetha iifoto zam endizithandayo nganye. Iimodeli ezindinike udliwanondlebe zifumene ukhetho kunye neefoto ezininzi. Yehla ukuba zeziphi iifoto ezifumanekayo, zeziphi iifoto endinokuzinika ilayisenisi kunye nexabiso! Uhlahlo lwabiwo-mali lokuqala lwaluyi-$35,000, kodwa yayixabisa kabini loo nto, endayihlawula epokothweni.

Into ekufuneka siyibone kumanqanaba aphezulu efashoni nangasemva kwemiboniso, ngabafazi abaninzi benza izigqibo kunye nabantu abaninzi bemibala kwizikhundla zolawulo. Iyenzeka, nangona kancinci.
-Marcellas Reynolds

URose Cordero, ufotwe nguJohn-Paul Pietrus, Arise, Spring 2011 © John-Paul Pietrus.

NgoMntu oMnyama woMntu ozisa incoko yeyantlukwano phambili, ucinga ukuba siya kubona utshintsho oluhlala luhleli kwishishini?

Ndiqinisekisa ukuba ifashoni isandulela kutshintsho lwentlalo. Xa sibona imifuziselo yombala iboniswe kakuhle kwiintengiso, kwiimagazini, nakwindlela yeenqwelo-moya, ibeka phambili umbukeli kokulandelayo. Ewe, sisenomsebenzi omninzi ekufuneka siwenze kwifashoni, kodwa ifashoni kuzo zonke iintsilelo zayo inenkqubela kakhulu kunoluntu ngokubanzi. Khumbula, ukwenza imodeli kuphela kweshishini apho abafazi benza imali eninzi kunabalingane babo abangamadoda. Ishishini lefashoni liqesha abasetyhini abaninzi kunamadoda nangona amadoda asaqhuba. Oko kufuneka kutshintshe. Into ekufuneka siyibone kumanqanaba aphezulu efashoni nangasemva kwemiboniso, ngabafazi abaninzi benza izigqibo kunye nabantu abaninzi bemibala kwizikhundla zolawulo. Iyenzeka, nangona kancinci.

URoshumba Williams, ufotwe nguNathaniel Kramer, Elle US, ngo-Aprili 1990 © Nathaniel Kramer.

Ngaba kukho naziphi na iianecdotes ezinomdla ekusebenzeni kwincwadi?

Zininzi izinto eziphambeneyo ezenzeka kwiminyaka esibhozo endiyithathileyo ukubhala nokupapasha iiSupreme Models. Nantsi enye yezinto endizithandayo: USteven Meisel wandinika ifoto yakhe yeVogue Italia kaNaomi Campbell kum. UNaomi, endimcele ukuba abhale Intshayelelo, uye waphuma ngomzuzu wokugqibela. Emva kokumthumelela indlela ebhalwe ngayo incwadi, akazange ayithande ifoto endandicebe ukuyisebenzisa ekuqaleni kwicandelo lakhe. Ucele ifoto kaSteven Meisel.

Ewe, bendingenayo imali yokuthenga imifanekiso eyongezelelweyo. Ndithathe unyaka wonke ukuze ndibhale incwadi kwaye ndasebenzisa imali yam yonke ukuhlawula irenti, ukutya, kwaye ngokusisiseko ndikhona. Ndikwasebenzise imali endiyigcinileyo ukuhlawula abahleli befoto yam kunye neemali ezininzi zeefoto zelayisensi. Ngomnqweno ndasondela ku-Meisel's reps owafikelela kuye, kwaye uMnu Meisel wandipha ngesisa amalungelo kwisithombe sakhe! UNaomi wakufumana oko wayekucelile, ndaza ndazalisa umngxuma kwincwadi yam. USteven Meisel ngoyena mfoti endimthandayo. Ndivuya kakhulu ukuba nomsebenzi wakhe kwincwadi yam!

UGrace Bol, ufotwe nguKuba Ryniewicz, Vogue Poland, April 2018 Kuba Ryniewicz for Vogue Polska.

Ucinga ukuba ishishini lefashoni lingaphucuka njani malunga nokuxhasa italente yabantsundu?

Ewe, ishishini lefashoni kuza kufuneka lisiqeshe phambi kokuba lisixhase. Ngokufuthi kwiiseti zefashoni, ndim ndedwa umntu ontsundu. Ndizimele! Lo nto ithetha ukuthi ezi nkampani azinabasebenzi abantsundu abasisigxina! Akukho akhawunti imnyama, abahleli, izitayile zefashoni, iinwele kunye namagcisa okwenza izimonyo, kwaye akukho bafoti bamnyama, okanye nabancedisi beefoto. Sifuna abantu abaninzi abebala emva kwemiboniso kunye nakwizikhundla apho sinokumisela utshintsho lokwenyani!

Le ncwadi ibandakanya ii-supermodels kumashumi eminyaka. Ngaba bubuphi ubuso obutsha banamhlanje obubonayo bufikelela kwimo ye icon?

Zininzi kakhulu iimodeli ezintsha ezizukileyo, ezininzi endizibonise ngaphakathi kwiiModeli eziPhezulu. UAdut Akech mhlawumbi yeyona modeli iphambili emhlabeni ngoku. U-Anok Yai unomsebenzi omangalisayo. UDuckie Thot yenye yeemodeli ezintle kakhulu ezisebenzayo namhlanje. Ndixakeke nguDilone, endicinga ukuba ubuhle beklasiki obukhumbuza uDonyale Luna noPat Cleveland. UPrecious Lee ngumzekelo owophula umda kunye nobanga indawo yakhe kwihlabathi lokuhlela kunye nomzekelo wendlela yeenqwelo-moya. Ndicinga ukuba ngamnye kwaba basetyhini unamandla kunye nokuqina ukufikelela kwimo ye icon.

I-Veronica Webb, ifotwe ngu-Albert Watson, iVogue Italia, ngoMeyi 1989 uAlbert Watson / Ngembeko yeVogue Italia.

Yintoni oye wayithanda kakhulu ngokusebenza kule projekthi?

Eyona nto ndiyithandayo yokudala iiModeli eziPhakamileyo yayikukuqhuba udliwano-ndlebe. Ndenze udliwanondlebe nabasetyhini abangaphezu kwamashumi amane, nangona abaninzi bengazange bayenze le ncwadi. Kwakhona, yehla kwiifoto. Yincwadi yobugcisa. Ukunyaniseka, uburharha nobukrelekrele bala mabhinqa buqaqambile. Eyona nto ndiyithanda kakhulu kudliwano-ndlebe ngaba bafazi bayathandana kwaye bayaxhasana. Bavuyisana omnye nomnye! Xa usiva amabali e-Nahomi vs. Tyra feud, kufuneka wazi ukuba yi-fluke.

Kwiimeko ezininzi, le mifuziselo yasebenza kunye ukuze incede enye kwenye iphumelele. Yinto entle. Iimodeli ezininzi zibalise amabali ngokuncedwa nguNahomi! UNahomi wayengoyiki ukutshintshwa zezinye iimodeli. Leyo yingxelo eyenziwe ngamadoda amhlophe kunye noshicilelo lokunyelisa i-trailblazer esongela imeko. UNahomi ngumfazi owazithethela yena namanye amabhinqa angamabala. Sifanele simphakamise ngenxa yokomelela nenkalipho eyathabathayo.

ULois Samuels, ufotwe nguJames Hicks, ongapapashwanga, 1998 © James Hicks.

Unethemba lokuba abantu bazakuthatha ntoni kule ncwadi?

Ndiyathemba ukuba le ncwadi ikhanyisela ukuzinikela, ukusebenza nzima, kunye netalente efunekayo ukuze ube yimodeli ephumelelayo. Imalunga nokungaphezulu kwemfuza. Ndiyathemba ukuba umfundi uyayiqonda indlela ebaluleke ngayo ifashoni kunye neemodeli kwinkcubeko nakuluntu. Kubaluleke kakhulu ukuba abantwana bazibone bemelwe ngokufanelekileyo nangobulungisa. Kungenxa yoko ukwahlukana kunye nokubandakanywa kubaluleke kakhulu. Ukubona abanye abajongeka ngathi uphumelele kunceda ukubethelela ukuzingca kulowo ubukeleyo.

Naziphi na iiprojekthi ezizayo ongathanda ukwabelana ngazo?

Ndihlonitshwe kwaye ndonganyelwe luthando Iimodeli eziPhakeme eziqhubeka zifumana kumaphephandaba kunye nabasetyhini aba-DM okanye i-imeyile bethetha ukuba le ncwadi ithetha kangakanani kubo. Ndise ndilila ngayo. Ndibhala ukulandelelana kwiiModeli eziPhakeme, endithemba ukupapasha ekwindla 2021. Ndibeke isitayile sefashoni kwi-backburner. andikakulungeli ukubuyela ekubekeni ubomi. Ndiqalise ukusebenza njenge-arhente yokuphosa, kwaye ndineprojekthi ezivela kwi-ABC kunye ne-NBC kwitoti. Ndifuna ukutshintsha iingcinga ezisoloko sizibona kumabonakude.

Andibazi abafazi abaziphethe njengabo sibabona kuBravo. Andibazi abantu basetyhini abazibandakanyayo nabangenalusini njengabadlali be-KUWTK. Ndifuna ukubona ukumelwa okungafaniyo nokulungileyo kwabasetyhini kunye noluntu lwe-LGBTQI kumabonakude. Sifuna imiboniso eyinyani kunye neyakhayo yamaqela angathathi ntweni kumajelo eendaba. Utshintsho luya kwenzeka kuphela xa amalungu ala maqela enikwa isihlalo etafileni! Emva koko kufuneka sivunyelwe ukuba sithethe, simamele, kwaye sibe negunya lokumisela utshintsho.

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