Xa kuziwa kwihlabathi lemodeli, iyantlukwano iye yahamba indlela ende kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo. Ukusuka ekuboniseni iimodeli zombala ukuya kuthotho lweesayizi okanye iimodeli ezingezizo zokubini, kukho inkqubela phambili yokwenyani. Nangona kunjalo, kusekho indlela ende ekufuneka ihanjwe xa kufikwa ekwenzeni imodeli ibe yindawo yokudlala. Ngexesha lekwindla ye-2017 ye-runway season, i-27.9% yeemodeli ze-runway yayiyimodeli yombala, ngokwengxelo ye-Fashion Spot's diversity. Ibeyi-2.5% yokuphucuka xa kuthelekiswa nesizini edlulileyo.
Kwaye kutheni ukungafani kwimodeli kubaluleke kakhulu? Umgangatho obekwe ngushishino unokuba nefuthe elibi kumantombazana amancinci asebenza njengemizekelo. Njengomseki weModel Alliance, USara Ziff ithi malunga nophando lwe-modeling ka-2017, "Ngaphezu kwe-62 yeepesenti [yemifuziselo ekuye kwaxoxwa ngayo] baye bacelwa ukuba banciphise umzimba okanye batshintshe imilo okanye ubukhulu babo yi-arhente yabo okanye omnye umntu kwishishini." Utshintsho kwimbono malunga nomfanekiso womzimba lunokunceda ukwenza imboni ibe ngcono kwiimodeli kunye namantombazana anokuchukumiseka ajonge imifanekiso.
Iimodeli eziMnyama kunye neYantlukwano
Elinye icandelo lemodeli eliphuculweyo kukubunjwa kweemodeli zombala. Xa kuziwa kwiimodeli ezimnyama, kukho ezininzi kwiinkwenkwezi zokunyuka. Amagama afana Imaan Hammam, ULinesy Montero kwaye Adwoa Aboah bathathe ingqalelo kumaxesha onyaka akutshanje. Nangona kunjalo, umntu unokuqaphela ukuba ezininzi zezi modeli zikhaphukhaphu kwibala lolusu. Ngelixa ukusebenzisa imodeli engaphezulu yombala kuya kunconywa, inyaniso ihleli kukuba abafazi abamnyama beza kwiindidi zesikhumba.
Kunokubakho umba we-tokenism kwishishini. Njengoko umlawuli wokuphosa ongaziwa uxelele i-Glossy ngo-2017, iqala ngenani leemodeli zombala ezikhoyo. "Umzekelo, ezinye ii-arhente zemodeli zinezizwe ezimbalwa kuphela kwiibhodi zazo ukuqala, kwaye iipakethi zabo zemiboniso yefashoni zinokuba nangaphantsi. Badla ngokubandakanya, njengamantombazana amabini ukuya kwamathathu aseMerika, enye yaseAsia kunye nama-20 okanye ngaphezulu eCaucasus.
Chanel Iman uxelele neThe Times ngo-2013 malunga nokujongana nonyango olufanayo. “Kwizihlandlo ezimbalwa ndiye ndangxengxezelwa ngabayili bezinto ababendixelela ukuba, ‘Sele siyifumene intombazana enye emnyama. Asisakudingi.’ Ndaziva ndidimazekile kakhulu.”
Ukunyuka kweeModeli zaseAsia
Njengoko i-China iye yaba ngumdlali omkhulu kuqoqosho lwehlabathi, uqale wabona ukwanda kweemodeli zaseMpuma Asia. Ukususela ngo-2008 ukuya ku-2011, iimodeli ezifana Liu Wen, Ming Xi kwaye Sui Yena yanda kakhulu kushishino. Amantombazana afumana amaphulo amakhulu kunye namaqweqwe eemagazini eziphambili zefashoni. Nangona kunjalo, njengoko iminyaka yayihamba, olo tyhalo lokubona ubuso obuninzi baseAsia kwifashoni kwabonakala ngathi kwehla.
Kwiimarike ezininzi zaseAsia, iimodeli ezigubungela amaphephancwadi okanye zivela kwimikhankaso yentengiso yiCaucasian. Ukongeza, iimveliso zokuthambisa zithandwa kakhulu kwiindawo ezifana neTshayina, iIndiya kunye neJapan. Iingcambu zomnqweno wolusu olulungileyo zingabotshwa kwanamaxesha amandulo kunye nenkqubo yeklasi egxininisiweyo. Sekunjalo, kukho into ephazamisayo malunga nombono wokusetyenziswa kweekhemikhali ukutshintsha ithoni yesikhumba kwi-2017.
Kwaye iimodeli zaseMzantsi Asia ezinebala elimnyama okanye iimpawu ezinkulu azikho kwishishini. Ngapha koko, xa iVogue India yatyhila uqweqwe lwayo lweminyaka eli-10 Kendall Jenner , abafundi abaninzi bathatha imidiya yoluntu ukubonisa ukuphoxeka kwabo. Omnye umntu ogqabaza kwi-Instagram yeli phephancwadi wabhala: “Eli ibilithuba lokubhiyozela ilifa nenkcubeko yamaIndiya. Ukubonisa abantu baseIndiya. Ndiyathemba ukuba uza kwenza izigqibo ezingcono ukuya phambili, ukuze ube yinkuthazo kubantu baseIndiya. "
Iimodeli eziCurvy kunye nobukhulu obungaphezulu
Kushicilelo lwayo lukaJuni ka-2011, iVogue Italia yazisa umba wayo wecurvy oquka iimodeli ezinobukhulu obukhethekileyo. Amantombazana ekhava aquka Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine kwaye URobyn Lawley . Oku kwaphawula ukuqala kweemodeli ezigobileyo ezithatha indawo kwishishini lefashoni. Nangona inkqubela iye yacotha, sibone uAshley Graham efumana iqweqwe lika-2016 leSports Illustrated: Swimsuit Issue, ephawula imodeli yokuqala yobukhulu bokudibanisa ukufekethisa upapasho. Ukufakwa kweemodeli ze-curvy ezifana noGraham, uBarbie Ferreira, u-Iskra Lawrence kunye nabanye bongeza kwintshukumo yamva nje kwi-positivity yomzimba.
Nangona kunjalo, imodeli ye-plus-size model isenomcimbi kunye nokwahluka. Iimodeli eziMnyama, zaseLatina kunye nezaseAsia azikho kakhulu kwingxelo eqhelekileyo. Omnye umba omawujongwe kukwahluka komzimba. Uninzi lweemodeli ezinobungakanani obungaphezulu zinemilo yeglasi yeyure kwaye zilungelelaniswe kakuhle. Njengethoni yesikhumba, imizimba iza kwiimilo ezahlukeneyo ngokunjalo. Iimodeli ezineemilo ze-apile okanye amanqaku olulwayo abonakalayo ahlala engasayinwa okanye abonakaliswe ngokubalaseleyo. Ukongeza, kukwakho umbuzo wokuleyibhela iimodeli ezigobileyo ngolo hlobo.
Umzekelo, ngo-2010, Myla Dalbesio yaboniswa njengomzekelo kwiphulo likaCalvin Klein lempahla yangaphantsi. Kubukhulu be-10 e-US, abantu abaninzi bachaza ukuba eneneni wayengekho kunye nobukhulu. Ngokwemveli, iimveliso zefashoni zileyibhile iimpahla ezinobungakanani obungaphezulu kwe-14 nangaphezulu. Ngelixa kusenziwa imodeli, igama libandakanya ubungakanani besi-8 ukuya phezulu.
Ngaloo mahluko udidayo, mhlawumbi yiyo loo nto iimodeli zecurvier zithanda URobyn Lawley biza ishishini ukuba lilahle ileyibhile ye-plus-size. "Ngokwam, ndiyayithiya igama elithi 'plus-size'," utshilo u-Lawley kwi-interview ye-2014 kunye ne-Cosmopolitan Australia. "Iyahlekisa kwaye iyanyelisa - ibeka abafazi phantsi kwaye ibeka ileyibhile kubo."
Iimodeli zeTransgender
Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, iimodeli ze-transgender ezifana Hari Nef kwaye UAndreja Pejic baye babetha ukhanyo. Bafumene amaphulo eemveliso ezifana neGucci, iMakeup Forever kunye noKenneth Cole. Imodeli yaseBrazil uLea T. wasebenza njengobuso bukaGivenchy ngexesha likaRiccardo Tisci kwi-brand. Kuyaphawuleka ukuba, nangona kunjalo, iimodeli zombala we-transgender zilahlekile kakhulu xa kufikwa kwiimpawu zefashoni eziqhelekileyo.
Sikwabone iimodeli ezitshintshe isini zihamba ngeVeki yeFashoni. UMarc Jacobs ubonise iimodeli ezintathu ze-transgender kumboniso wakhe wekwindla-ebusika ka-2017 ngexesha leVeki yeFashoni yaseNew York. Nangona kunjalo, njengoko unjingalwazi waseColombia UJack Halberstam uthi ngotyekelo lwamvanje lwenqaku le<em>New York Times, “Kuhle ukuba kukho ii<em>transbodys ezibonakalayo ehlabathini, kodwa ubani ufanele ayilumkele intsingiselo yayo engaphaya koko kunye nokwenza amabango ngokwezobupolitika. Konke ukubonakala akusikhokelele kwinkqubela phambili. Ngamanye amaxesha kubonakala nje. ”
Ithemba Ngekamva
Xa sijongisisa ishishini lemodeli kunye nokwahluka, kufuneka sincome abo bakwishishini abalifumana ngokufanelekileyo. Ukusuka kubahleli beemagazini ukuya kubaqulunqi, maninzi amagama aqaphelekayo ajonge ukutyhala iyantlukwano ngakumbi. Umlawuli wokuphosa UJames Scully uye ku-Instagram ngo-Matshi ukutyhola i-brand yase-French u-Lanvin ngokucela ukuba "angaboniswa ngabafazi bemibala". U-Scully uphinde waveza kwintetho yakhe kunye neShishini leFashoni ngo-2016 ukuba umfoti wala ukuthwebula imodeli kuba wayemnyama.
Abayili abanje UChristian Siriano kwaye UOlivier Rousteing yaseBalmain ihlala iphosa imifuziselo yemibala kwimiboniso yeenqwelomoya okanye amaphulo. Kwaye iimagazini ezifana neTeen Vogue nazo zamkela uluhlu olwahlukeneyo lweemodeli kunye neenkwenkwezi. Sinako kwakhona iimodeli credit ezifana UJourdan Dunn abathetha ngokuchasene namava obuhlanga kushishino. UDunn watyhila ngo-2013 ukuba igcisa le-makeup elimhlophe lalingafuni ukumchukumisa ubuso ngenxa yebala lakhe lolusu.
Sinokujonga ii-arhente ezizezinye ezifana neSlay Models (emele iimodeli ezitshintshe isini) kunye ne-Anti-Agency (ebonisa imifuziselo engaqhelekanga) kwiinketho ezininzi ezahlukeneyo. Inye into ecacileyo. Ukuze iyantlukwano kwimodeli ibengcono, abantu kufuneka baqhubeke nokuthetha kwaye bazimisele ukuthatha amathuba.