Uboya bebukade buwuphawu lokunethezeka nesimo. Kodwa njengoba singena ekhulwini lama-21, sekuyinsakavukela umchilo wesidwaba ukugqoka. Ngezindlu zemfashini eziwubukhazikhazi njengeGucci esanda kumemezela isinqumo sokukhulula uboya, ukusebenzisa isikhumba sesilwane kushintsha ngokushesha. Ezinye izinhlobo zemfashini ezifana no-Armani, u-Hugo Boss no-Ralph Lauren nazo ziye zakhululeka uboya eminyakeni yamuva.
Isimemezelo sikaGucci esenziwa ngo-Okthoba 2017 sabangela izihloko ezinkulu emhlabeni jikelele. “I-Gucci ukuhamba ngaphandle koboya kuwushintsho olukhulu. Ukuze le ndlu yamandla iqede ukusetshenziswa koboya ngenxa yonya oluhilelekile kuzoba nomthelela omkhulu we-ripple emhlabeni wonke wemfashini. Izilwane ezimangalisayo eziyizigidi eziyikhulu ngonyaka zisahlupheka embonini yoboya, kodwa lokho kungasimama kuphela uma abaklami beqhubeka besebenzisa uboya nabathengi bebuthenga,” kusho uKitty Block, umongameli weHumane Society International.
Kungani Uboya Bungasekho I-Chic
Uboya bulahlekelwa ukuduma phakathi kwemikhiqizo ewubukhazikhazi futhi kunezici eziningi zokuchaza ukuthi kungani. Amaqembu alwela amalungelo ezilwane afana ne-PETA kanye ne-Respect for Animals aphushele ukuthi imikhiqizo iyeke ukusebenzisa uboya iminyaka manje. "Ubuchwepheshe sebuyatholakala okusho ukuthi awudingi ukusebenzisa uboya," kusho isikhulu seGucci uMarco Bizzarri etshela iVogue. “Izindlela ezihlukile ziwubukhazikhazi. Asikho nje isidingo.”
Ake sibheke imininingwane yesimemezelo sakamuva sikaGucci. I-brand izoba mahhala ngesizini yentwasahlobo ka-2018. Kule minyaka eyishumi edlule, inkampani itshale imali esikhumbeni sokwenziwa kanye nezinsiza ezisimeme. Ngokunjalo, iGucci izothengisa izinto zayo zoboya bezilwane ezisele ngemali etholwa izinhlangano ezilwela amalungelo ezilwane.
Esinye isizathu semikhiqizo eminingi yemfashini ehamba kude noboya ingaxhunyaniswa nabathengi ngokwabo. Uma uya ekhasini le-Facebook noma le-Twitter lomkhiqizo esebenzisa uboya noma ukuhlola imikhiqizo yezimonyo ezilwaneni, ngokuvamile uzobona abathengi bebhala imibono bezwakalisa ukudumala kwabo. Ukwengeza, ukugxila emvelweni kubaluleke kakhulu kumthengi weminyaka eyinkulungwane. Futhi leli qembu kuthiwa libala ngaphezu kwengxenye yamakhasimende akwaGucci.
Yini Enkulu Ngoboya?
Nakuba izindlu eziningi zemfashini zisakhiqiza izimpahla zesikhumba, kunezizathu eziningana zokuthi kungani uboya bubhekwa njengomkhuba ononya ngokukhethekile. I-athikili evela ku-Sydney Morning Herald iveza ukuthi u-85% woboya okhiqizwa emhlabeni wonke ufuywa embonini. “Bese kuba khona ukubulawa. Izindlela ziyahlukahluka kusukela ekufakeni igesi (okuvame kakhulu e-EU) kanye nomjovo obulalayo, ukuphuka kwentamo, kanye nokucwiliswa kwendunu nangomlomo (okubangela isifo senhliziyo kuyilapho isilwane sisaqaphile),” kubhala i-Herald’s Clare Press.
Izishoshovu zamalungelo ezilwane eziqinile nabathengi abakhathazekile banokugxekwa okwengeziwe kunokuhamba kwemfashini ezitayela zamahhala zoboya. Ukusetshenziswa kokugunda, isikhumba noboya kuseyizimpikiswano ezinkulu kwabanye. Noma kunjalo, imboni ngokusobala ithatha izinyathelo ezicacile zokuzinza nokuqaphela izilwane.
UStella McCartney, ongakaze abe noboya nesikhumba kusukela kwasungulwa umkhiqizo wakhe ukusho lokhu ngekusasa lemfashini. “Ngiyethemba ukuthi okuzokwenzeka eminyakeni eyi-10, abantu bazobheka emuva eqinisweni lokuthi sabulala izinkulungwane zezigidi zezilwane futhi sagawula amahektare ayizigidi zamahektare ehlathi lemvula, futhi [sasebenzisa] amanzi ngendlela engasebenzi kahle kakhulu—singakwazi’ sisekele le ndlela yokuphila,” etshela iVogue UK. “Ngakho-ke ngiyethemba ukuthi abantu bazobheka emuva bathi, ‘Ngempela? Yilokho abakwenza ukuze benze izicathulo, ngokungathi sína?’ Uma unenhlanhla yokuba nebhizinisi kule planethi, kufanele usondele kulo ngale ndlela [esimeme].”
Futhi empeleni eminye yemikhiqizo yemfashini ebanda kunazo zonke futhi enobuzziest ithathe izindlela ezisimeme. Bheka izinkampani ezifana neReformation, AwaveAwake, Maiyet kanye neDolores Haze ezisebenzisa izinto ezisimeme. Indlela yabo yokuqaphela ibazuzele isisekelo sabathengi abazinikele.
Ngemva Kokuvinjelwa Koboya, Yini Elandelayo?
Njengoba izinhlobo zemfashini ezihamba phambili ziqala ukubalekela uboya, isimo semboni sizoqhubeka nokuvela. “Ucabanga ukuthi ukusebenzisa uboya namuhla kuseyisimanje? Angicabangi ukuthi kuseyisimanje futhi yingakho sinqume ukungakwenzi lokho. Sekuphelelwe yisikhathi, ”kusho isikhulu seGucci uMarco Bizzarri kwiBusiness of Fashion. "Ubuciko bungagxumela ezindaweni eziningi ezihlukene esikhundleni sokusebenzisa uboya."
Nakuba izinhlobo zemikhiqizo ziya ngokuya zithatha isimo ngokumelene nezinto ezifana noboya nesikhumba, kusenokubaluleka kokuklama. Abathengi ngeke bavele bathenge ngomyalezo, kumayelana nesitayela kusho uStella McCartney. “Ngicabanga ukuthi imfashini kufanele ihlale ijabulisa futhi inethezeka futhi ifiseleka, futhi ungaphila iphupho ngalokho esikudalayo, kodwa ungakwazi [futhi] ukuba nomuzwa wokulondeka owudlayo ngendlela eqaphela kakhudlwana...Manje isikhathi soshintsho, manje yisikhathi sokubheka ukuthi yini engenziwa nokuthi ubuchwepheshe bungasisindisa kanjani.”