Sekuyiminyaka imboni yezemfashini igxekwa ngezenzo ezingenampilo ezihlanganisa ukulingisa amamodeli azacile kakhulu namantombazane aneminyaka engaphansi kwe-18 emibukisweni yemigwaqo nemikhankaso efanayo. Ngesimemezelo sakamuva sokuthi izinhlangano zemfashini u-Kering kanye ne-LVMH bahlanganyele eshathani yempilo enhle, kubangele amagagasi embonini yonkana. Ngokuphawulekayo, lezi zindaba ziza ngaphambi kokuqaliswa komthetho waseFrance olawula amamodeli we-BMIs ngo-Okthoba.
Ingxenye yomthethosisekelo ithi abesifazane abakusayizi 32 (noma 0 e-US) bazovinjelwa ekulingiseni. Amamodeli kuzodingeka futhi ethule isitifiketi sokwelashwa esiqinisekisa ukuthi anempilo enhle ngaphambi komdlalo wokudutshulwa noma we-runway. Ukwengeza, amamodeli angaphansi kweminyaka engu-16 ubudala awakwazi ukuqashwa.
Isiqalo Esinensayo Sokushintsha
Umbono wokulawulwa embonini yokumodela ube yindaba eshisayo eminyakeni yamuva nje. I-Model Alliance eyasungulwa ngu-Sara Ziff ngo-2012, iyinhlangano engenzi nzuzo ehlose ukuvikela amamodeli eNew York. Ngokufanayo, iFrance yaphasisa ngokusemthethweni umthethosivivinywa ngo-2015 owawudinga ukuba imodeli ibe ne-BMI okungenani engu-18. Ama-ejenti nezindlu zemfashini zingabhekana nama-euro angu-75,000 ngenhlawulo ngisho nesikhathi sokuboshwa.
Ngokushesha ngemva kwalokho, i-CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) yakhipha imihlahlandlela yezempilo eyayihlanganisa ukuhlinzeka ngokudla okunempilo nokudla okulula kusethiwe. Amamodeli ahlonzwe ngokuba nenkinga yokudla aphakanyiswa ukuthi afune usizo lochwepheshe. Nakuba iMelika ingakadluli noma yimiphi imithetho yenhlalakahle efana neyaseFrance; lezi iziphakamiso ezinhle ukuqala.
Naphezu kwemikhiqizo ethembisa ukubheka kumamodeli anempilo kakhudlwana, kube nezigameko ezimbi ezisakazwayo eminyakeni yamuva nje. Isibonelo, ngoFebhuwari 2017, i-ejenti yokulingisa imodeli James Scully usole uBalenciaga ngokujikijela abaqondisi ngamamodeli ahlukumezayo. Ngokusho kuka-Scully, amamodeli angaphezu kwe-150 ashiywe ezitebhisini isikhathi esingaphezu kwamahora amathathu ngaphandle kokulondoloza ukukhanya kwezingcingo zabo. Ngokuqondene ne-CFDA, inqwaba yamamodeli aneminyaka engaphansi kwe-16 ahamba emigwaqweni yezindiza eNew York naphezu kwemihlahlandlela yawo emisha.
Ukweqa Imithetho
Njengoba kunemithetho ekhona yokuba namamodeli ezisindweni ezinempilo, kunezindlela zokweqa imithetho. Ngo-2015, imodeli engaziwa yakhuluma ne-Observer mayelana nokusebenzisa izisindo ezifihliwe ukuhlangabezana nemithetho. “Ngenze iFashion Week eSpain ngemuva kokuthi besebenzise umthetho ofanayo kanti izikhungo zithole igebe. Basinika izingubo zangaphansi ze-Spanx ukuze sizifake ngezikhwama zesihlabathi ezinesisindo ukuze amantombazane amancane abe nesisindo ‘esinempilo’ esikalini. Ngaze ngababona befaka izinsimbi ezinweleni zabo.” Lo modeli uphinde wathi amamodeli kumele abe neminyaka engu-18 ngaphambi kokuba abambe iqhaza kulo mkhakha ukuze anikeze isikhathi sokuthi imizimba yawo ithuthuke.Kwakukhona futhi icala lemodeli Ulrikke Hoyer ; owathi uxoshwe ohlelweni lukaLouis Vuitton ngokuba “mkhulu kakhulu”. Kusolakala ukuthi abajikijeli bathi “ubenesisu esiqunjelwe kakhulu”, “ubuso obuqunjelwe” futhi wayalelwa ukuthi “aphuze amanzi kuphela amahora angama-24 alandelayo”. Ukukhuluma ngokumelene nomkhiqizo omkhulu wokunethezeka njengoLouis Vuitton ngokungangabazeki kuzoba nomthelela emsebenzini wakhe. “Ngiyazi ngokusho indaba yami nokukhuluma ngibeka engcupheni yonke into, kodwa anginandaba,” esho eposini likaFacebook.
Ingabe Ukwenqabela Amamodeli Esikhumba Yikuphi Okungcono Kakhulu?
Nakuba, ukubona amamodeli anempilo emzileni wezindiza kubonakala njengokunqoba okukhulu, abanye bayabuza ukuthi kuyindlela yokuhlazisa umzimba. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-BMI njengenkomba yezempilo nakho kube nenkulumompikiswano eshisayo eminyakeni yamuva nje. Ngesikhathi esembukisweni weviki leNew York Fashion Week, umlingisi nowayengumodel uJaime King wakhuluma ngalokho okubizwa ngokuthi ukuvinjelwa kwamamodeli wesikhumba. "Ngicabanga ukuthi kungaba okungalungile neze ukusho ukuthi uma ungu-zero, awukwazi ukusebenza, njengokuthi akulungile ukusho ukuthi uma ungusayizi we-16, awukwazi ukusebenza," kusho umlingisi. i-New York Post.
“Ngokwemvelo ngizacile ngempela, futhi ngezinye izikhathi kuba nzima ngempela ukuba ngikhuluphale,” enezela. Uma abantu ku-Instagram bethi, 'Hamba uyodla i-hamburger,' ngifana nokuthi, 'Hawu, bangihlazisa umzimba ngendlela engibukeka ngayo.'” Izinkulumo ezifanayo ziye zananelwa ngamanye amamodeli esikhathini esidlule. njengoSara Sampaio noBridget Malcolm.
Lisiphatheleni Ikusasa?
Naphezu kwezinselelo zayo, imboni yezemfashini ithatha izinyathelo zokwenza indawo enempilo yamamodeli. Ukuthi le mithetho izolwenza yini ushintsho olukhulu kusazobonakala. Ngeke kuthathe ama-ejensi okumodela kuphela kodwa nezindlu zemfashini ngokwazo zilandela izidingo. Umthetho osemthethweni we-European Union ovimbela usayizi ongu-0 wamamodeli ngeke usebenze kuze kube umhla ka-1 Okthoba 2017. Nokho, imboni isivele ikhulumile.
U-Antoine Arlnault, oyi-CEO yaseBerluti, utshele iBusiness of Fashion. “Nginomuzwa wokuthi ngandlela thize, [ezinye izinhlobo] kuzofanele zithobele ngoba amamodeli ngeke avume ukuphathwa ngendlela ethile amabhrendi nangenye indlela nabanye,” usho kanje. “Uma laba baholi ababili bemboni sebesebenzisa imithetho efanele, kuzodingeka bayilandele. Bamukelekile kakhulu ukujoyina noma ngabe bephuzile ephathini. ”