Ukusakaza manje ku-Netflix, uchungechunge lwehora lesigamu elithi 'Girlboss' luxoxa indaba eqanjiwe yomsunguli uNasty Gal. Igama lika-Sophia Amoruso ukukhuphuka kusuka kumthengisi we-vintage kuya empumelelweni yezigidigidi zamadola. UBritt Robertson ithatha indima kaSophia endabeni enemibala ehlelwe eSan Francisco kusukela ngo-2006 kuya ku-2008. Futhi-ke, njengoba indaba igxile emfashini, umbukiso kwakudingeka ulethe ngaphambili kwesitayela. Umklami imvunulo ‘yentombazane’ U-Audrey Fisher muva nje ngivule mayelana nokulungisa indaba engxoxweni ekhethekile ne-FGR. Kusukela engutsheni yakhe ayintandokazi ukuya ekusebenzeni no-Sophia wangempela kanye nenselelo yokugqoka izingubo ezishisayo, thola i-Q&A ephelele ngezansi.
“Ingubo ngayinye engiyidalele umlingiswa uSophia bekufanele ibe nesitatimende esihlukile, esibukeka kahle—ngisho noma wayezihlalele nje endlini yakhe imvunulo yakhe bekumele ikhulume kakhulu ngokuzibophezela kwakhe esitayeleni sakhe. - U-Audrey Fisher
Ingxoxo: Umklami wezingubo u-Audrey Fisher ku-'Girlboss'
Uqale kanjani ukuklama imvunulo? Yayiyini imfundo yakho?
Kusukela ngisemncane, ngangihlale ngizenzela mina, abangane bami nomkhaya wami imvunulo. Indlela yami yokuklama imvunulo yayinembile, inokudala futhi ihlelekile nakuba ingekho imfundo. Nokho ngisekolishi, ngakhangwa ulimi, futhi ngafunda i-English Literature nesiJalimane. Ngayithakasela indawo yeshashalazi, futhi nginesithakazelo emsebenzini wedramaturgy nezifundo zeshashalazi.
Ngemva kokuphothula, ngaphishekela lelo phupho, ngathola ama-internship nama-avant-garde amabili avelele eNew York City, ngabe sengiqala izifundo zeziqu e-NYU’s Tisch School of the Arts ukuze ngiqhubeke nemfundo yami. Futhi ngisho nasohlelweni lwami lokuthweswa iziqu oluyinselelo enkulu, ngangisenza imvunulo ngesikhathi sami sokuphumula. Konke bekuxhumene: Nganginentshisekelo yokuthi izingubo zingaxoxa kanjani izindaba.
Ngokusekelwe kwezinye izigqoko zaseshashalazini engangizenzela ikilasi lezobuciko, umqondisi ongumJalimane ohlelweni lwami lwe-Tisch wangicela ukuba ngiklame imvunulo yokukhiqiza kwakhe i-‘Medea’ enkundleni yemidlalo yaseshashalazini yase-East Village. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho izingubo zaba yintandokazi yami nomsebenzi wami, ngalowo mkhiqizo wokuqala omncane kodwa othokozisayo ekuqaleni kwawo-1990.
Njengoba izingubo zakudala ziyingxenye enkulu yendaba ye-Nasty Gal, uye wasebenzisa izingcezu eziningi zakudala?
Kunjalo! Indaba ka-Sophia yakhelwe kuma-racks nama-racks ezingubo zakudala, ngakho-ke bekungumsebenzi wami njengomklami wakha ikhabethe lomlingiswa ongu-Sophia ukuthi ahloniphe lowo mlando. U-Sophia ngokwakhe wayethanda i-silhouette ehehayo futhi eqinile yama-1970s, futhi kwakukhona izinkomba kokubili encwadini yakhe nasembhalweni emininingwaneni ecacile engithole ukuyilungisa kabusha embukisweni wethu, njengalawo majini abomvu ayintandokazi...nalelo bhantshi lesikhumba lase-East West!
Ngibheke zonke izitolo zami zakudala eziyintandokazi, futhi ngafinyelela kubathengisi engisebenze nabo iminyaka ukuze ngithole izingcezu ezingasebenzela uSophia wethu, ovezwe nguBritt. Ngizamile ukusebenzisa i-vintage eningi ngangokunokwenzeka ku-Britt, kodwa ngezinye izikhathi ukukhiqizwa kwe-TV kunezidingo ezikhethekile, njengokuphindaphinda kwezingcezu ezithile ngenxa ye-stunt, noma imvula, noma isithombe esiphindwe kabili...ngakho uma kunjalo ngizozama ukusebenzisa izingcezu zamanje zaziphefumulelwe ngama-70s. Ngakhe futhi imvunulo ka-Britt eminingi…futhi lokho kuhlala kuwumvuzo kakhulu ngoba ngiyakwazi ukudizayina lokho okusebenzela umlingisi, indawo kanye nomlingisi...umqhele ophindwe kathathu!
Kungakanani okokufaka kuka-Sophia Amoruso imvunulo yombukiso?
Kusukela ekuqaleni, u-Sophia Amoruso wayephana kakhulu ngokwabelana ngesikhathi sakhe, izithombe zakhe zomuntu siqu futhi wangivumela ukuthi ngibone izingubo zangempela ayezigqoka ngaleso sikhathi sokuphila kwakhe! Unikeze ukukhiqizwa umtapo wezithombe ezinhle kakhulu zakhe, nabangane bakhe abahle, behlanganyela e-SF maphakathi nawo-2000s, futhi lezo zithombe beziyimephu yomgwaqo enhle kimi. Kuyakhuthaza kakhulu.
Kodwa ithuluzi elinamandla kakhulu uSophia anginika lona kwakuwukuhamba ngekhabethe lakhe (eliwisa imihlathi)! Ekuseni ngaya endlini yakhe ewubukhazikhazi...futhi sabe sesingena endlini. Ngathatha izithombe zakho konke, ngenza “iBhayibheli likaSophia”—i-albhamu yazo zonke lezo zingubo: ivini elidala wayeligqoka ezithombeni zakhe zomuntu siqu, izingcezu eziningi ayemane nje ezenza. izinto eziyigugu, nezintsha ezingisizile ukungibonisa uthando lwakhe lokuklama. Ngaso sonke isikhathi lapho ngidinga ugqozi, ngangiphenya kulelo Bhayibheli, futhi ngithole inhlansi engangiyidinga ukuze ngigqokise u-Britt esinye isigcawu esihle sombukiso.
Njengoba lo mbukiso umiswe eminyakeni eyishumi edlule, bekuyinselelo ukuhlanganisa ukubukeka kwemfashini kusukela ngo-2006-2008? Ubufuna ukugxila kumathrendi angaleso sikhathi?
Yebo. Ama-silhouette emfashini wakamuva awabonakali ngokushesha kubabukeli. Isibonelo, sonke sinesandla esifushane esibonakalayo semfashini yeminyaka engu-60 kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1950-ukhalo oluncane, isiketi samapoodle; ngisho nakuma-1980s-amaphedi amahlombe! Kodwa lapho usondela esikhathini sethu samanje, ngokuvamile i-silhouette ayikabonakali njengento eyaziwayo noma eqanjwe kalula.
Eminyakeni engu-50, i-silhouette emaphakathi nawo-2000 ingase ibe intandokazi enkulu ye-Halloween! Abadlali abaphakathi nendawo bebenamathrendi abo aqinile kanye nokuvutha komsindo: izigqoko zamaloli, amahembe ayindida, amahembe emfashini e-cowboy, amajini asikiwe, amabhulukwe e-satin, amabhulukwe e-satin, iziketi ezinde, amavesti amancane, amajakhethi ashunquliwe... ngingaqhubeka. Ngazama ukudweba ukubukeka okuqinile kwamaphakathi no-Aughts kubadlali bangemuva, ukumisa izingcezu ngaleso sikhathi, futhi ngagxila ekubukekeni kuka-Sophia 70s, i-retro vibe ka-Annie, kanye nokubukeka okungaphelelwa yisikhathi kubafana.
Isiphi iseluleko ongasinikeza umuntu ofuna ukuqalisa ukuklama imvunulo?
Iseluleko sami sihlala sifana: Gxumela phakathi. Landela inkanuko yakho. Yiba nomthwalo wemfanelo futhi ube nomusa. Ithi yebo kuwo wonke amathuba ngoba awazi ukuthi ubudlelwano buzoholela emisebenzini ethokozisayo yokuklama. Zenze ubaluleke kakhulu eqenjini lakho! Woza nemibono enobuhlakani kakhulu! Futhi jabula...ngoba ukulwela ukudizayina izingubo zokuziphilisa kuyinjabulo esemthethweni. Intombazane Kakhulu!
Bekunjani ukusebenzisana kusethi?
I-Girboss yayimayelana nami ukusebenzisana noKay Cannon kanye nababhali, ngigqugquzelwa imibhalo yabo emangalisayo, futhi ngisebenza eduze nezinye izinhloko zeminyango yokudala ukuze ngisekele le ndaba, kuyilapho ngikhuthazwa uhambo luka-Sophia oluqotho, olunomphefumulo. Futhi Ithimba lami eliyinkanyezi—umklami osizayo uKristine Haag, uSupervisor Sara Castro, Key Costumer Yuki Tachibe, Costume Buyer Mayumi Masaoka, Set Costumers Nick and Lorie, Extra Buyers, kanye no-PAs Ross kanye no-Zoa—bonke bazinikele ekudaleni umhlaba onemininingwane owuthandayo. bona esikrinini!
Ikuphi ukubukeka kwakho okukhonzile ohlelweni, noma okugqama kakhulu?
Kunzima ukukhetha intandokazi phakathi kokubukeka okuningi okuhlukile! Ingubo ngayinye engiyidalele umlingiswa uSophia bekufanele ibe nesitatimende esihlukile, esibukeka kahle. Ngisho noma wayezihlalele nje endlini yakhe imvunulo yakhe bekufanele ikhulume kakhulu ngokuzibophezela kwakhe esitayeleni somuntu siqu.
Kodwa imvunulo engiyithanda kakhulu ngendlela edlula ngayo le ndaba futhi ecwayiza i-Sophia yangempela i-jumpsuit yedenim esiyakhele u-Britt. Kungu-SO Sophia, ilingana njengegilavu, futhi ifana nomfaniswano “womsebenzi” wemfashini osezingeni eliphezulu. Ngangazi ukuthi ngifuna ukwakhela umlingiswa i-jumpsuit yedenim ikakhulukazi ngoba u-Sophia wangempela uhlale enyakazisa i-jumpsuit empilweni yakhe yamanje nge-panache enjalo! Ngakho-ke leyo mvunulo yayiyi-chic, intelezi yenhlanhla, exhumanisa inganekwane kanye noSophia wangempela.