Imfashini yabesifazane yama-1920 yaletha inkathi yesimanje yokugqoka. Abesifazane baqala ukugqoka ukuze bakhululeke futhi bagqoke kakhulu uma kuqhathaniswa namashumi eminyaka adlule. Njengoba inhlangano yabesifazane ilwela amalungelo abantu okwaphumela ekuphasisweni kwesichibiyelo se-19 e-United States futhi kunikeza abesifazane ilungelo lokuvota, manje kwase kunenkululeko entsha yabesifazane kokubili kwezombusazwe kanye nezingubo zabo zokugqoka.
Kwabonakala kunegebe lamasiko phakathi komusha, “owesifazane omusha” wama-1920s kanye nesizukulwane esidala esasisetshenziswa ukuze kubonakale futhi kufane, ukubukeka kwenkathi yama-Victorian. Ekuqaleni, lezi zitayela zizobonakala zishaqisayo, kodwa njengoba isikhathi siqhubeka, umphakathi wamukela imfashini emisha yama-1920s.
Imfashini Yabesifazane Yawo-1920
Lolu shintsho aluzange lukhiphe izesekeli. Njengoba ama-hemlines ephakama, izithende zabonakala kakhulu, zenza indlela yezitayela zezicathulo zokuhlobisa. Izigqoko namabhande asekhanda nawo afaka imihlobiso enesibindi ekhuthazwe ukunyakaza kwe-art deco.
Ubucwebe buye bathengeka kakhulu futhi bavumela ukufinyelela nokuhlobisa. Ngezansi, sigqamisa izitayela zemfashini ezinkulu zeshumi leminyaka, okuhlanganisa izingubo ze-flapper, izicathulo, ubucwebe, izigqoko, izingubo zangaphansi, izingubo zokubhukuda, nokuningi.
I-Flapper Dress
Ishumi leminyaka liphinde labona ushintsho kuma-silhouettes kwabesifazane. Ingubo ye-flapper yayiyimfashini yabesifazane yango-1920 eyayibonisa iziketi ezinde, ezifika emadolweni ku-shift silhouette. Zazingasekho izimo ezicindezelayo zenkathi yama-Victorian, futhi manje intokazi ebizwa ngokuthi i-flapper iqhamuke nezinwele ezimfishane futhi igqoke ingubo eqondile nexegayo, enezinkalo okhalo.
Nakuba lokhu kungase kubonakale njengobude obamukelekayo esikhathini sanamuhla, ngaleso sikhathi, izingubo ezinjalo zazibhekwa njengezimfushane ngokwedlulele. Izingubo ze-Flapper zaqanjwa ngegama elithi "Flappers" - abesifazane abahlubukayo eminyakeni yama-'20s ababevame ukuphuza, ukubhema, ukugqoka izimonyo ezinzima, nokwenza ezinye izenzo eziphikisana nezinkambiso zomphakathi ngaleso sikhathi.
I-Lingerie yama-1920s
Njengezinwele ezimfushane zama-1920s, ama-1920s anikeza abesifazane inkululeko ngezingubo zangaphansi futhi. I-chemise-njengento yangaphansi eyodwa-in-one yaduma. Futhi njengoba ama-hemlines ekhuphuka, amasokisi abonakala egqokwe kaningi. Ukusungulwa kwe-rayon ye-silk ehlukile kwavumela abesifazane bazo zonke izimo zomphakathi ukuba bakwazi ukukhokhela i-pantyhose.
Ngawo-1900, abanye besifazane ababegqoke kahle babegqoka izingcezu ezifika kweziyishumi zezingubo zangaphansi emizimbeni yabo. Futhi nge-20s, iningi laligqoka izingcezu ezimbili noma ezintathu zezingubo zangaphansi. Indima yamakhemikhali yayiwukufihla ama-corset seams noma iqiniso lokuthi owesifazane akazange agqoke i-corset nhlobo!
Izimpahla zokubhukuda
Uvolo owodwa-ucezu lungase luzwakale lucasula kwabanye, kodwa konke kwakunolaka phakathi neminyaka yawo-1920. Umqondo wokubhukuda kwabesifazane abaningi wawuseyinto entsha, ngakho okwakugxilwe kakhulu ngezingubo zokubhukuda ngaleso sikhathi kwakuwukuzigcina ufudumele - okuholela emiklameni yoboya. Ayehlukile kumapitikoti anzima asekuqaleni kwawo-1900.
I-brand yesudi yokugeza ka-Jantzen yayaziwa ngophawu lwayo, olufaka intombazane etshuza eqoqweni elibomvu elisheshayo. Lesi sithombe saduma emhlabeni wonke phakathi nekhulu lamashumi amabili.
Amakepisi okubhukuda ayesemfashinini, njengoba ayevimbela izinwele ukuba zingonakaliswe. Amakepisi okubhukuda esitayela se-“Aviator” abesemfashinini nawo, elingana kahle phezu kwamakhanda owesilisa nowesifazane.
Izigqoko ze-Cloche
Ngawo-1920, izigqoko nezingubo zasekhanda zazidume kakhulu. Eqinisweni, abanye bathi abesifazane abaningi abazange baphume endlini ngaphandle kwekepisi. Lokhu ngokwengxenye kwakungenxa yezindinganiso zobuhle ezazigcizelela isikhumba esiphaphathekile nezinwele ezimfushane ngaleso sikhathi.Izigqoko ze-cloche kwakuyizigqoko ezimise okwensimbi ezangena emfashinini ngeminyaka yawo-20s. Ngokuvamile zazenziwe ngezinzwa futhi zinerimu elincanyana. Abesifazane babevame ukubeka amaribhoni ezigqokweni zabo ze-cloche ukukhombisa isimo sabo sothando.
Izindlu zemfashini ezifana noLanvin zaze zavula ama-milliner ateliers azo ukuklama izigqoko. Ngokuvamile, i-cloche yayihlotshiswe ngamatshe ayigugu, ama-brooches, noma izikhafu. Kuphinde kwabonwa njengemfashini ukuphakamisa umphetho wesigqoko.
Amabhande asekhanda
Phakathi nenani eliphakeme lenkathi ye-jazz ngawo-1920, amabhande asekhanda noma ama-bandau ayegcwele intukuthelo. Ihlotshiswe ngamatshe ayigugu ayigugu, izinsimbi, noma ngisho nezimpaphe, ibhande lekhanda lenza isisetshenziswa esiphelele se-flapper.
Futhi isitayela siye senza ngisho nokuqala kabusha namuhla ngenxa yemikhosi yomculo kanye nemfashini ye-bohemian. Uhlobo oludumile lwamabhande ekhanda kwakuyikhanda elithi "isitayela sokugoqa", esakhiwe ngomucu owodwa wezimbali, amaparele, noma ezinye izinto zokuhlobisa.
Ubucwebe bama-1920s
Ubucwebe ngeminyaka yawo-1920s baba yindawo ehlukahlukene yemfashini njengoba abesifazane sebekwazi ukuveza ubuntu babo. Ubucwebe be-"Art deco" babuwumkhuba omkhulu wama-1920s ochazwa ngemibala ecebile kanye nomumo wejometri. Njengoba abantu beqaphela amanye amazwe abazungezile, baqala ukusebenzelana nobucwebe “abangavamile” obunemiklamo eyinkimbinkimbi eyakhiwe nge-jade ne-turquoise.
Ngawo-1920, izinto ezidingekayo ukwenza ubucwebe nazo zashibhile, okwaholela ohlotsheni olusha lobucwebe olubizwa ngokuthi “izingubo zokugqoka”. Umsunguli we-Chanel u-Coco Chanel uvame ukubhekwa njengokwandisa ubucwebe bemvunulo.
Abaklami bashintsha amatshe ayigugu nezinsimbi bafaka ingilazi enemibala nensimbi enethoni yegolide. Lokhu kwenza amasongo, amacici, nemigexo kufinyeleleke kuwo wonke umuntu, okunomthelela ekudumeni kwayo ngeminyaka yawo-1920s. Imigexo ye-Pearl strand nayo yayidumile, njengaleyo egqokwa umdansi odumile u-Josephine Baker.
1920s Izicathulo
Isithende seminyaka yawo-1920 sasimi phakathi kwamasentimitha amabili kuya kwamathathu ubude. Izitayela zezicathulo ezidumile zangaleso sikhathi zaziphathelene nezintambo kusukela lezi zithende zizohlala ngenkathi zidansa. Lezi zazihlanganisa uMary Janes onemichilo eqakaleni, ama-T-strap anemicu eqakaleni naphakathi konyawo, kanye namaphampu angenazo izintambo.
Ukuze uthole ukugqoka okungavamile, kwakukhona ama-oxford nezithende zezihlalo. Izicathulo zazivame ukuhlanganiswa namasokisi njengoba ama-hemlines ngaleso sikhathi aphakanyiswa, abonisa isikhumba esiningi.
Isiphetho:
Manje njengoba usubonile ukuthi kwakunjani ukugqoka ngeminyaka yawo-1920, imuphi umkhuba owawuwuthanda kakhulu? Kusukela ku-slip dress kuya kubucwebe bemvunulo, le minyaka eyishumi isagqugquzela izitayela zamanje emhlabeni wemfashini. Ingabe ufisa ukuthi izigqoko ze-cloche zibuyele ngesitayela? Noma ingabe ingubo ye-flapper ijubane lakho?