Kuyo yonke le minyaka, sibone amamodeli amaningi amnyama eba ama-trailblazers. Kusukela kokuqala kumakhava omagazini kuya emibukisweni yemigwaqo nemikhankaso, ukuhlukahluka kuyindaba ebalulekile embonini yemfashini. Kuze kube manje, akukaze kube khona incwadi yobuciko equkethe amamodeli amnyama kuphela. Umbhali uMarcellas Reynolds, owaziwa ngokuba yintatheli kanye nentatheli yezokungcebeleka, uthulela isigqoko ngobuhle namandla abo ngencwadi yakhe. Amamodeli Aphakeme: Abesifazane Abamnyama Abayi-iconic Abaguqule Imfashini ihlanganisa izithombe zezithonjana ezifana noNaomi Campbell, uBeverly Johnson, uPat Cleveland, nezinkanyezi ezintsha ezifana noJoan Smalls no-Adut Akech. Ngaphezu kwezithombe ezinhle, kushicilelwa izindatshana ezivezayo kanye nezingxoxo. Sisanda kuba nethuba lokuxoxisana no-Reynolds ohambweni lokudala le ncwadi, ukuthi ucabangani ngekusasa lokuhlukahluka, kanye nokuthi kuzoba khona yini ukulandelelwa.
Kuthathe iminyaka eyisishiyagalombili ukuthola Amamodeli Aphakeme ishicilelwe ngenxa yokuthi abashicileli abambalwa bathi ayikho imakethe yencwadi ekhuluma ngamamodeli amnyama.
- UMarcellas Reynolds
Kwamangaza ukufunda ukuthi ayikaze ibe khona incwadi enikezwe abantu abamnyama ngaphambili, okwenza lo msebenzi ubaluleke kakhulu. Ucabanga ukuthi kungani kunjalo? Ingabe bekukhona umgqugquzeli othile wokudala le phrojekthi?
I-Supreme Models yincwadi yokuqala ye-ART enikezwe amamodeli amnyama aphezulu. Nokho, zikhona ezinye izincwadi ezinikelwe kumamodeli amnyama kodwa hhayi kulesi sigaba noma kulesi sikali. Kuthathe iminyaka eyisishiyagalombili ukuze kushicilelwe ama-Supreme Models ngoba abashicileli abaningana bathi ayikho imakethe yencwadi ekhuluma ngamamodeli amnyama. Ngagqugquzelwa ukuthi ngibhale amaSupreme Models ngiphendula iVogue Model: The Faces of Fashion, incwadi ekhishwe ngo-2011, enikezelwe kumamodeli avela kuBritish Vogue. Yayihlanganisa kuphela amamodeli amabili amnyama; U-Iman noNaomi Campbell.
Iqiniso elimangalisa kakhulu ngeVogue Model kwaba ukushiywa ngaphandle konkulunkulu u-Donyale Luna, owaba imodeli yokuqala emnyama ukuvela kukhava KUNOMA IYIPHI i-Vogue lapho ethola ikhava ye-British Vogue ngo-1966. Yileyo minyaka emihlanu ngaphambi kokuba iVogue Italia ifake uCarol LaBrie. esembozweni sayo, neminyaka eyisishiyagalombili ngaphambi kokuba i-American Vogue ifake uBeverly Johnson esembozweni sayo. Ngo-April 19, 2011, ngosuku engathola ngalo incwadi ethi Vogue Model, nganquma ukubhala ama-Supreme Models ukuze nginikeze amamodeli amnyama ukuhlonishwa okubafanele. Iyatusa futhi iyavuma ukuthi ezinye izincwadi zobuciko ezifana neHarper’s Bazaar Models, Models of Influence: Abesifazane abangama-50 Abasetha Kabusha Isifundo Semfashini, Imodeli njengeMuse: Embodying Fashion, kanye neVogue Model: Ubuso Bemfashini abunakwanga ukwenza.
Chaza inqubo yokukhetha izithombe zencwadi.
Ukuhlela, ukuhlela, ukuhlela! Kunezithombe eziningi ezinhle neziyizimpawu kumamodeli Aphakeme. Lapho sengikhethe ukuthi yimaphi amamodeli engizowafaka encwadini, okwakunzima kakhulu, ngakhetha izithombe zami eziyintandokazi ngayinye. Amamodeli anginikeze inhlolokhono athole izintandokazi nezithombe eziningi. Kwehla ukuthi yiziphi izithombe ezitholakalayo, yiziphi izithombe engingazinika ilayisense kanye nenani lentengo! Isabelomali sokuqala sasingu-$35,000, kodwa sasibiza ngokuphindwe kabili lokho, engasikhokha ngephakethe.
Okudingeka sikubone emazingeni aphezulu emfashini nangemuva kwezigcawu, abesifazane abaningi benza izinqumo kanye nabantu abaningi bemibala ezikhundleni. Kuyenzeka, noma kancane.
- UMarcellas Reynolds
Njengoba i-Black Lives Matter iletha ingxoxo yokuhlukahluka phambili, ucabanga ukuthi sizobona ushintsho oluhlala njalo embonini?
Ngiyagomela ukuthi imfashini iyisandulela soshintsho emphakathini. Uma sibona amamodeli ombala ethulwe kahle ezikhangisweni, komagazini, nasendleleni yezindiza, kugqamisa isibukeli ukuthi yini elandelayo. Yebo, sisenomsebenzi omningi okufanele siwenze kwezemfashini, kodwa imfashini kukho konke ukwehluleka kwayo ithuthuka kakhulu kunomphakathi uwonke. Khumbula, ukumodela ukuphela kwebhizinisi lapho abesifazane benza khona imali eningi kunozakwabo besilisa. Ibhizinisi lemfashini liqashe abesifazane abaningi kunabesilisa nakuba abesilisa besaliqhuba. Lokho kumele kushintshe. Okudingeka sikubone emazingeni aphezulu emfashini nangemuva kwezigcawu, abesifazane abaningi benza izinqumo kanye nabantu abaningi bemibala ezikhundleni. Kuyenzeka, noma kancane.
Ingabe akhona ama-anecdotes athakazelisayo ngokusebenza kule ncwadi?
Ziningi izinto ezingasile ezenzeka eminyakeni eyisishiyagalombili engithathe ngayo ukubhala nokushicilela iSupreme Models. Nansi enye yezintandokazi zami: USteven Meisel wanginika isithombe sakhe seVogue Italia sikaNaomi Campbell. UNaomi, engangimcele ukuba abhale Isandulelo, wayeka ngomzuzu wokugcina. Ngemva kokumthumelela isakhiwo sencwadi, akasithandanga isithombe engangihlele ukusisebenzisa esigabeni sakhe. Ucele isithombe sikaSteven Meisel.
Nokho, ngangingasenayo imali yokuthenga izithombe ezengeziwe. Ngithathe ikhefu lonyaka ukuze ngibhale incwadi futhi ngasebenzisa yonke imali engangiyongile ukuze ngikhokhele indawo yokuhlala, ngidle, futhi ngibe khona. Bengiphinde ngasebenzisa imali engiyilondolozile ukuze ngikhokhele abahleli bezithombe zami kanye nenqwaba yemali ekhokhwayo yokulayisensa ezithombeni. Ngokuphelelwa yithemba ngasondela ku-Meisel's reps owafinyelela kuye, futhi uMnu Meisel wanginika ngokukhululekile amalungelo esithombe sakhe! UNaomi wakuthola ayekucelile, futhi ngavala imbobo encwadini yami. USteven Meisel ungumthwebuli wezithombe engimthandayo. Ngijabule kakhulu ngokuba nomsebenzi wakhe encwadini yami!
Ucabanga ukuthi imboni yezemfashini ingathuthuka kanjani ngokweseka ithalente labamnyama?
Hhayi-ke, imboni yezemfashini kuzomele isiqashe ngaphambi kokuthi isixhase. Kaningi kumasethi emfashini, yimi ngedwa umuntu omnyama. Ngizimele! Lokho kusho ukuthi lezi zinkampani azinabasebenzi abamnyama abaqashwe ngokugcwele! Abekho abaphathi be-akhawunti emnyama, abahleli, izitayela zemfashini, abaculi bezinwele nezimonyo, futhi abekho abathwebuli bezithombe abamnyama, noma abasizi bezithombe. Sidinga abantu abengeziwe bemibala ngemuva nasezikhundleni lapho singenza khona ushintsho lwangempela!
Le ncwadi ihlanganisa ama-supermodel kuwo wonke amashumi eminyaka. Ingabe ibuphi ubuso obusha banamuhla obubona bufinyelela isimo sesithonjana?
Maningi kakhulu amamodeli amasha akhazimulayo, amaningi engiwaveze ngaphakathi kwamaSupreme Models. U-Adut Akech cishe uyimodeli yokuqala emhlabeni njengamanje. U-Anok Yai unomsebenzi omangalisayo. I-Duckie Thot ingenye yamamodeli amahle kakhulu asebenzayo namuhla. Ngizifela ngo-Dilone, engicabanga ukuthi unobuhle wakudala okhumbuza u-Donyale Luna no-Pat Cleveland. U-Precious Lee uyimodeli eyeqa umngcele futhi ebanga indawo yakhe emhlabeni wokuhlela kanye nokumodela kwe-runway. Ngicabanga ukuthi ngamunye walaba besifazane unamandla nokuqina ukuze afinyelele isimo sesithonjana.
Yini oyijabulele kakhulu ngokusebenza kule phrojekthi?
Ingxenye engangiyithanda kakhulu yokudala ama-Supreme Models kwaba ukwenza izinhlolokhono. Ngixoxisane nabesifazane abangaphezu kwamashumi amane, nakuba abaningi bengayitholanga incwadi. Futhi, kwehlela ezithombeni. Yincwadi yobuciko. Ukwethembeka, amahlaya, nobuhlakani balaba besifazane bugqama. Engikuthanda kakhulu ngenhlolokhono laba besifazane bayathandana futhi bayasekana. Bajabulelana! Uma uzwa izindaba zombango kaNaomi vs. Tyra, kufanele wazi ukuthi lokho kuwukubhuqa.
Ezimweni eziningi, la mamodeli asebenza ndawonye ukuze asizane aphumelele. Kuyinto enhle. Amamodeli amaningi axoxa izindaba ezithinta uNawomi! UNaomi wayengesabi ukushintshwa amanye amamodeli. Lokho ukulandisa okudalwe ngamadoda amhlophe kanye nabezindaba ukuze kuhlanzwe i-trailblazer esongela isimo esikhona. UNawomi ungowesifazane owazikhulumela yena nabanye besifazane abanemibala. Kufanele simphakamise ngamandla nesibindi esathatha.
Yini othemba ukuthi abantu bayisuse encwadini?
Ngethemba ukuthi le ncwadi izokhanyisa ukuzinikela, ukuzikhandla kanye nethalente elidingekayo ukuze ube imodeli ephumelelayo. Kumayelana nokuningi kakhulu kunofuzo. Ngethemba ukuthi umfundi uyabona ukuthi imfashini namamodeli abaluleke kangakanani esikweni nasemphakathini. Kubaluleke kakhulu ukuthi izingane zizibone zimelelwe kahle futhi zingenzeleli. Yingakho ukuhlukahluka nokufakwa kubaluleke kakhulu. Ukubona abanye ababukeka njengawe bephumelela kusiza ukufaka umuzwa wokuziqhenya ngaphakathi kombukeli.
Yimaphi amaphrojekthi azayo ongathanda ukwabelana ngawo?
Ngizizwa ngihloniphekile futhi ngigajwe uthando lwamaSupreme Models aqhubeka aluthola kwabezindaba nabesifazane abangithumelela i-imeyili bethi incwadi isho ukuthini kubo. Ngisakhala ngakho. Ngibhala ukulandela kwe-Supreme Models, engithemba ukuyishicilela ekwindla ka-2021. Ngibeke isitayela semfashini ku-backburner. Angikalungeli ukubuyela ekubekeni impilo. Ngiqale ukusebenza njenge-ejenti yokulingisa, futhi nginamaphrojekthi avela kwa-ABC kanye ne-NBC ebhodweni. Ngifuna ukushintsha izinkoleloze esizibona kumabonakude.
Angibazi abantu besifazane abaziphatha njengalaba esibabona kuBravo. Angibazi abantu besifazane abazibandakanyayo nabangenangqondo njengabadlali be-KUWTK. Ngifuna ukubona ukumelwa okuhlukahlukene nokuhle kwabesifazane kanye nomphakathi we-LGBTQI kumabonakude. Sidinga ukuvezwa okuyiqiniso nokuhle kwamaqembu abecwaswa kwabezindaba. Ushintsho luzokwenzeka kuphela lapho amalungu ala maqembu enikezwa isihlalo etafuleni! Khona-ke kufanele sivunyelwe ukukhuluma, silalelwe, futhi sibe namandla okwenza izinguquko.