Iminyaka yawo-1930 yaphawula isikhathi esiyingqayizivele emfashinini yabesifazane. Ngokuwa kwemakethe yamasheya ngasekupheleni kuka-1929, i-Great Depression yaqala e-United States futhi yabonakala njengokuwohloka komnotho okubi kakhulu izwe elike lakubona emlandweni walo. Abantu baseMelika abaningi babalekela ezinkundleni zemidlalo yeshashalazi ukuze babone ukucwebezela nobukhazikhazi bamafilimu aseHollywood.
Uma owesifazane engakwazi ukuthenga ikhabethe elisha, okungenani wayekwazi ukubona izihlabani zama-movie ezifana no-Marlene Dietrich, u-Joan Crawford, no-Carole Lombard bephila impilo ephelele yesithombe. Ngaphandle kokubalekela amamuvi, abesifazane bangakwazi futhi ukuthuthukisa izesekeli zabo ukuze bavuselele amakhabethe abo. Funda ngezansi ukuze ubone ukuthi imfashini yama-1930 ihluke kanjani kusitayela esibhongayo sama-1920s.
Amathrendi Emfashini Yabesifazane Bawo-1930
Izingubo Ezinde
Imfashini yama-1930 yabona ukubuya kwemigqa emide yabesifazane. Eqinisweni, igama elithi hemline laqala ukusetshenziswa phakathi neminyaka eyishumi. Emini, izintokazi zazigqoka iziketi ngenhla nje kweqakala kuyilapho izingubo zasebusuku zakusihlwa zifika phansi. Abesifazane baphinde bamukela ukhalo lwemvelo futhi uma kuqhathaniswa nenkathi ye-flapper yama-1920 eyayivame ukufaka ama-silhouette axekethile. Abaqambi abafana no-Vionnet kanye ne-Schiaparelli batuswa ngokuba nomthelela ekubukekeni okuklanyelwe nokucaciswe kwemfashini.
Izimpahla zokubhukuda
Eshumini leminyaka eledlule kube ne-swimsuit elingana kahle futhi ebukeka kahle, nakuba yayimboze ingxenye enkulu yomzimba. Futhi ngeminyaka yawo-1930, kwenziwa intuthuko eyengeziwe ngezingubo zokubhukuda. Ukushiswa ilanga kwakuyinto yonke ethukuthele, futhi imiklamo yezingubo zokubhukuda zabesifazane yayihlanganisa iqolo elinesikeko esiphansi kanye nemigqa encishisiwe yamabele ukuze bathole ukubukeka okugqanyiswe yilanga. Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka eyishumi, kwethulwa izingcezu ezimbili ezidalula i-midriff yowesifazane.
Amabhulukwe Abesifazane
Nakuba kwakungajwayelekile kakhulu, ngeminyaka yawo-1930, abesifazane ababesebenza emafemini babegqoka amabhulukwe. Abalingisi abaziwayo bangaleso sikhathi abafana noGreta Garbo, uMarlene Dietrich, noKatharine Hepburn babanjwa begqoke ibhulukwe. Kwakuzothatha iminyaka engamashumi amane ngaphezulu kuze kube yilapho umphakathi usugone ngokugcwele abesifazane abagqoke amabhulukwe, kodwa le minyaka eyishumi ibonakala iqala njengenguquko ngenxa yalezi zindlela zokulandelanisa zesitayela.
1930s Abaklami
Njengoba iminyaka yawo-1920 ifika ekupheleni, iminyaka yawo-1930 yabona ukubuyela ebuntwini besifazane. Yayingasekho i-silhouette eyayifanela abantu abafana abanemigqa egqagqene eyisicaba evumelana nezimo ezincipha okhalo futhi “ezingowesifazane” kakhudlwana. Abaklami abadumile abafana no-Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet, noCoco Chanel baba nomthelela ekugqokeni ngemiklamo yabo emisha. Ubukhazikhazi befilimu buphinde bagqugquzela laba baklami.U-Elsa Schiaparelli – Amaphedi Asemahlombe kanye Nengubo Esongayo
Iminyaka yawo-1930 futhi yethula ukubukeka okubanzi kwehlombe okugqugquzelwe umklami wemfashini wase-Italy u-Elsa Schiaparelli owayesebenzisa amaphedi ehlombe. I-Schiaparelli ihlonishwa ngokusungula imiklamo eminingi. Wayengakha ingubo yokugoqa-isitayela esivalwe ngaphambili esiboshwe ngezibopho futhi esinomugqa we-V. Umklami waziwa nangokusungula ama-culottes-ukubukeka kwesiketi esihlukanisiwe kuvumele inkululeko kwabesifazane ukwenza imisebenzi efana nethenisi noma ukugibela amabhayisikili. U-Schiaparelli no-Chanel bachazwa njengezimbangi ezinonya, owavala ibhizinisi lakhe ngo-1954–yize igama lomkhiqizo lalizophinde livele eminyakeni eminingi kamuva.
I-Coco Chanel & Ingubo Encane Emnyama
Ngo-1926, iVogue US yashicilela isithombe sengubo encane emnyama kaCoco Chanel futhi yabiza ngokuthi "i-Chanel's Ford" -eqanjwe ngemoto ebiza kakhulu ye-Model T kaHenry Ford. Nakuba ekuqaleni kwenziwa ngawo-1920, kwaze kwaba ngawo-1930 lapho lo mkhuba waqala khona ngempela. Lokhu kwakungenxa yezizathu eziningana. Umnyama wake wawucatshangwa njengombala wokulila. Kodwa lowo mbono washintsha njengoba i-Great Depression ibiza izingubo ezilula, futhi izihlabani zamafilimu zaseHollywood nazo zazigqoka umbala wefilimu.UMadeleine Vionnet kanye ne-Bias Cut Dress
Umklami ongumFulentshi uMadeleine Vionnet wayedume ngezingubo ezisikwe ngokuchema. Izingubo zakhe bezigqugquzelwe ngokwesiko lamaGreki, futhi ukudonseka kothando okufinyelelwa ngokusika indwangu ohlangeni nge-engeli engama-degree angu-45. Ukunciphisa ukudansa noma ukukuqeda ngokuphelele, imiklamo ye-Vionnet yamukela ifomu lemvelo labesifazane ngezinto ezilenga mahhala. Ngenxa yobunzima besikhathi sempi, uVionnet wavala ibhizinisi lakhe lokuklama ngo-1939 kodwa usengumklami onethonya wasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20.
1930S Izesekeli
Ngokuwohloka Okukhulu Kwezomnotho kuthinta abesifazane abaningi phakathi neminyaka yawo-1930, kwakungavamile ukuthenga izingubo ezintsha. Indlela yokubukeka ukhanga ngenkathi usebenzisa imali encane kwakuwukutshala izisekeli. Ipheya elihle lezicathulo noma isigqoko esisha singangeza i-pop ye-panache cishe kunoma yikuphi ukubukeka. Njengezingubo nezitayela zezinwele, abesifazane abaningi bakhuthazwa yilokho ababekubona ebhayisikobho. Izingubo zikaCarole Lombard, Joan Crawford, noma uJean Harlow zingaba nomthelela ekukhetheni amakhabethe. Thola okwengeziwe mayelana nezinsiza zeshumi leminyaka ngezansi.Izigqoko
Isigqoko se-cloche sango-1920 saqhubeka sithandwa kwaze kwaba cishe ngo-1933. Kodwa njengoba iminyaka eyishumi iqhubeka, izitayela ezingavamile, eziphefumulelwe wesilisa zaqala ukuthandwa. Isigqoko se-slouch (noma isigqoko sasePanama njengoba saziwa kanjalo namuhla) sasidume kakhulu ngeminyaka yawo-1930, futhi abesifazane babegqoka izigqoko zotshani ezinompheme obanzi ngesikhathi sasehlobo. Izigqoko zaziyingxenye ebaluleke kakhulu yokubukeka kowesifazane.
Izitayela Zezicathulo Zabesifazane
Phakathi Nokucindezeleka, izitayela zezithende zabesifazane zaba banzi futhi zaphansi uma kuqhathaniswa nama-1920s. Izithende eziningi zaziphakathi kuka-1.5 kuya ku-2.5 amayintshi ubude. Futhi, ama-Oxfords ayegqokwa kaningi ngabesifazane. Kodwa yini eyenza imfashini yama-1930 ihluke kwamanye amashumi eminyaka ukuthi izicathulo zazinezici eziningi zokuhlobisa. Izicathulo eziningi zabona ukusika kanye nemihlobiso yamathoni amabili.
Amagilavu - Usuku & Kusihlwa
Abesifazane abaningi babegqoka amagilavu ngawo-1930. Emini, kwakuyisiko ukugqoka amagilavu amafushane (angabi ngaphezu kwesihlakala). Ngenkathi kusihlwa, izitayela ezifika ngendololwane zazidumile. Ukufanisa amagilavu nezicathulo noma izikhwama zezandla kwakubhekwa njengesitayela.
Ubucwebe
Ngawo-1930s, ubucwebe bemvunulo babudumile ngenxa yokuthi babungabizi futhi bubhekwa njengento engasetshenziswa. I-Coco Chanel ivame ukuhlonishwa ngokudala ubucwebe bezingubo. I-Art deco isathonya imiklamo engxenyeni yokuqala yeshumi leminyaka, kodwa abesifazane bancamela izitayela ezilula kakhulu njengoba iminyaka iqhubeka. Imibala ehlukene, amagugu amakhulu nagqamile konke bekuyimikhuba yeshumi leminyaka.