Imodeli ye-extraordinaire u-Coco Rocha uveze kumakhava amaningi e-Vogue Italia, imikhankaso yokuthandwa kwe-Balenciaga, ngisho nomfula wadansela uJean Paul Gaultier. Njengomunye wabalingisi abahamba phambili endaweni yesehlakalo namuhla, ubuhle baseCanada bavivinya amakhono akhe encwadini entsha ebizwa ngokuthi, "Study of Pose". Ithwetshulwe nguSteven Sebring, ophinde abhale ngokubambisana le ncwadi, imodeli ithatha izimo eziyi-1,000 ezihlukile ngokumnyama nokumhlophe okumangalisayo. Muva nje, sibe nethuba lokuxoxisana nomodeli ukuze sifunde inselele yokwenza izimo eziningi kangaka, ukuthi wawunqoba kanjani umhlaba wenkundla yezokuxhumana kanye nokuthi uzizwa kanjani ngomunye wamaphrojekthi akhe amakhulu okwamanje—ukuba ngumama.
Abanye abantu bacabanga ukuthi ukumodela kuwumsebenzi ongathi shu kodwa le ncwadi beyihloselwe ukuthi ibe wubufakazi bendlela amamuse nokuma kwawo kugqugquzele ngayo ubuciko obukhulu emhlabeni izinkulungwane zeminyaka.
Isiphi isikhuthazo sale ncwadi?
Le ncwadi iwukuhlonipha ngempela yonke imidwebo, wonke amamuvi, zonke izithombe ezike zaba nomthelela emsebenzini wami wokumodela. Uzobona ama-poses encwadini athatha izinkulumo ezivela ku-Botticelli's Birth Of Venus' nezinye ezibhekisela ngokucacile kuCharlie Chaplin. Yinto engiziqhenya ngayo kakhulu. Bengihlale nginomuzwa wokuthi noma yini oyenzayo ekuphileni, kufanele usebenze kanzima kuyo futhi ulwele ukuba ngcono kakhulu ongaba yikho. Abanye abantu bacabanga ukuthi ukumodela kuwumsebenzi ongathi shu kodwa le ncwadi beyihloselwe ukuthi ibe wubufakazi bendlela amamuse nokuma kwawo kugqugquzele ngayo ubuciko obukhulu emhlabeni izinkulungwane zeminyaka. Kusukela ekudwebeni, ekudwebeni, ekwakhiweni kwezakhiwo, ezinkondlweni, kuye kwifilimu nangale kwalokho - konke kubuyela kumodeli kanye nesimo. Ngokwazi kwami, akekho odale inhlanganisela efana nalena, ngakho-ke ngijabule kakhulu ukuletha lokhu emhlabeni futhi ngibone ukuthi kuhamba kanjani. Ngethemba ukuthi iyincwadi abanye abantu abayihlekayo futhi abanye bayifundisise ngokujulile.
Umazi kanjani uSteven Sebring futhi kwakunjani ukusebenza naye kule phrojekthi?
Ngahlangana noSteven eminyakeni embalwa edlule ngomngane wethu, uMazdack Rassi, umqondisi wokusungula weMilk Studios. USteven wangitshela ngomshini wokuhlola ayesebenza kuwo owawukwazi ukuthwebula wonke ama-engeli emodeli, ngesikhathi esisodwa. Ngaba yisizinda sakhe salobo buchwepheshe obusha futhi sasebenza ndawonye isikhathi eside senza umsebenzi wokuhlola ojabulisa ngempela obungakabonwa umphakathi ngokugcwele. Ngolunye usuku uSteven wangitshela ukuthi, eminyakeni engu-90, wayefuna ukwenza uhlobo lwe-encyclopedia yokumodela ngemodeli eyodwa, kodwa akazange athole imodeli efanele yokwenza ngayo. Lokho kuzwakale kuyinselele enhle kimina ngakho mina nomyeni wami sabuyela kuye ngesonto elilandelayo mayelana nokusebenzelana nencwadi. Cishe ngesonto elilandelayo saqala ukusebenza ngakho futhi sakhetha ngokunganaki u-1000 njengenani eliyindilinga lokuma okufanele sihlose ukulifinyelela - ukukhuluma iqiniso ngangingazi nokuthi ngingakwazi yini ukwenza izimo eziyi-1000 ngaleso sikhathi!
Kunezimo eziyi-1,000 ezihlukile kule ncwadi. Ngisho nakumuntu omi ngompetha njengawe, bekuyinselele?
Ngeke ngiqambe amanga, kwakunzima! Ngingomunye walabo bantu abazogijima futhi bangayeki ngize ngiwe. Ngiyathanda ukuziphusha futhi ngizimisele kakhulu. Ukuqhamuka nezimo ezingu-1000 kucishe kwazwakala sengathi ngisemqhudelwaneni nami futhi kwakunezikhathi lapho ngangizwa sengathi ngizibekele inselelo engangingakwazi ukuyiqeda. Ngikhumbula cishe phakathi nencwadi ngitshela uSteven nomyeni wami uJames ukuthi ngangiphelelwa umoya. Ngenhlanhla babekhona ukuzongikhuthaza nokunginika ugqozi olusha. Omunye wabo wayememeza ethi "Grace Jones" noma "Fred Astaire" futhi ngikhulume ngokuma engangicabanga ukuthi kukhuthazwe yilowo muntu. Ngezinye izikhathi ngangihlanganisa abantu ababili ndawonye. Kuthiwani uma u-Elvis Presley ebesemzimbeni kaMarilyn Monroe? Wayezohamba kanjani lowo muntu? Ekugcineni ukuma kwafana nomdlalo we-jazz. Ngithola ukukhahlelwa lapho ngibheka emuva encwadini futhi ngikhumbule ukuthi ubani noma yini ephefumulelwe izimo.
Kwenzeka kanjani ukuba ube nekhono elingaka kubuciko be-pose?
Ukuma yinto engisasebenza ngayo, ngingumfundi waphakade we-pose! Ngikhumbula ngifunda encwadini kaMalcolm Gladwell ethi “Outliers” ukuthi kuthatha cishe amahora ayizinkulungwane eziyishumi wokuzijwayeza ukuzuza impumelelo emkhakheni. Anginaso isiqiniseko sokuthi sengikushayile okwamanje kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi ngisendleleni. Ekuqaleni komsebenzi wami ngadlula uhlobo lwekamu lokumodela lokumodela e-Asia elalishube kakhulu. Lapho ngineminyaka engu-15 ngafakwa eTaipei naseSingapore ukuze ngithwebule amakhathalogi. Abalingisi bakhona kukhona umbukwane impela ngikhuluma ngawo kancane encwadini. Iklayenti lihlala etafuleni elinabantu abayishumi bese lithi, "Kulungile-ke ikhathalogi yethu namuhla ithi "Sexy" noma "Cutesy." Bese-ke wena, njengemodeli elwela umsebenzi, ulindeleke ukuthi ufane nenye imodeli ukukhombisa ukuthi unenqwaba yokuma kuneyakhe. Kufana nokufaka ukufa! Uma usuwutholile umsebenzi ushutha ikhathalogi yezithombe ezingama-75. Ngezinye izikhathi ngangidubula ezimbili zalezo ngosuku futhi lokhu kwakuqhubeka izinyanga zilandelana.
Kusanda kuvela izindaba zokuthi ulindele ingane yakho yokuqala. Siyakuhalalisela! Kuzwakala kanjani?
Ngijabule kakhulu ngale ndima enkulu elandelayo empilweni yami. Mina noJames besilokhu sifuna izingane uma isikhathi sivuma, futhi ngizizwa sengathi ngisendaweni emangalisayo njengamanje yokwamukela ingane. Nginendlu yasepulazini ethandekayo ezweni, nginomyeni wami uJames oseduze kwami nsuku zonke futhi sindawonye sinomsebenzi namaphrojekthi athakazelisa ngempela. Ukuba nomntwana kuzoba iphrojekthi ejabulisa kakhulu eyake yenziwa ngomunye wethu futhi sijabule kakhulu ukubona ukuthi impilo iqhubeka kanjani. Enye yezingcaphuno engizikhonzile zikaJean Paul Gaultier owabhala incwadi yami ethi "Enye yezinto ezinhle kakhulu empilweni ukumangala". Kuningi kuphela ongakuhlelela, okunye njengoba uJean Paul Gaultier eshilo, kuyisimanga esimangalisayo!
Ungathanda yini ukuthi ingane yakho imodele lapho isikhulile? UDoutzen Kroes muva nje uthe angancamela ukuthi indodakazi yakhe ingavumi.
Nginesiqiniseko sokuthi uDoutzen unezizathu zakhe kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi kungaba wukuzenzisa kimi njengesibonelo ukuthi ingane yami isho ngokusobala ukuthi ayikwazi ukumodela. Kunoma iyiphi imodeli encane eqala kuleli bhizinisi, ngicabanga ukuthi kubalulekile ukwazi nokuhlola ukuthi ungubani nokuthi umeleni. Ngijabule ngokuthola impumelelo kulo mkhakha kodwa ngiyaziqhenya ngokuthi ngikwenze ngokwami, impumelelo ngazo zonke izindlela ayikaze ingihehe. Ngingathemba ukugxilisa lawo magugu afanayo enganeni yami ukuze ayiqondise kunoma yini ekhetha ukuyilandela, ukumodela noma okunye. Into eyodwa engizoyisho, ngicabanga ukuthi amamodeli angaphansi kweminyaka yobudala kufanele abe nomlandeli kanye nawo ezithombeni, ngaphandle kokushiya umthetho. Asikho isizathu sokuthi imodeli yentsha kufanele ithunyelwe yodwa ku-studio yomthwebuli wezithombe, akwamukeleki. Kungcono ukholwe ukuthi bengizoba lapho eceleni uma indodana noma indodakazi yami ibimodela!
Isiphi isikhathi esizigqaja ngaso emsebenzini wakho kuze kube manje?
Ngibe nezikhathi zemfashini ezimangalisayo emsebenzini wami kusukela kukhava yami yokuqala ye-Italian Vogue no-Steven Meisel kuya ku-Irish Dancing phansi komzila kaJean Paul Gaultier, kodwa izikhathi zami zokuziqhenya zonke kube yilapho ngizwa sengathi ngenze okuthile okuhle omunye umuntu. Umsebenzi wami nezinhlangano ezisiza abampofu eHaiti naseCambodia ungilethele ukwaneliseka okukhulu njengoba kwenzeka ngokushintsha umthetho wamamodeli angaphansi kwezingane eNew York ngonyaka odlule.
Unabalandeli abaningi kangaka ezinkundleni zokuxhumana, futhi njengoba ngikhumbula, enye yamamodeli amakhulu okuqala ukwamukela yonke into yenkundla yezokuxhumana. Ingabe ucabanga ukuthi amamodeli manje asenezwi "eliningi" manje ngenxa yamasayithi afana ne-Instagram, Twitter, njll.? Futhi yini ekugqugquzele ukuthi uqale ezinkundleni zokuxhumana?
Ngesikhathi ngiqala ukumodela, eminyakeni eyishumi eyedlule, zazingekho izinkundla zokuxhumana njengoba sinazo namuhla. Abathwebuli bezithombe bebesasebenzisa ifilimu yangempela kumakhamera abo! Ngizizwa ngimdala! Njengomunye wabokuqala kwezemfashini ukwamukela inkundla yezokuxhumana ngazizwa nginokungabaza kwabanye abantu embonini ngaleso sikhathi. Besingekho ngempela isibonelo somodela onobuntu, ezikhulumela ku-inthanethi. Abanye bangitshele ukuthi ngabelana kakhulu, ukuthi ngizothusa amakhasimende nokuthi amamodeli emfashini kufanele "angathintwa" futhi ngifinyeleleka kakhulu. Ngenhlanhla kimina akuzange kube njalo futhi ngaphumelela njengoba ngakha abalaleli bami. Kulezi zinsuku kufanele kube nezinkundla zokuxhumana. Ngiyazi ukuthi amanye amaklayenti adinga umkhawulo othile wabalandeli be-instagram kumantombazane awaqashayo ngakho yebo, izikhathi zishintshile impela! Ngicabanga ukuthi inkundla yezokuxhumana inginikeza ithuba elithokozisayo kimi, njengemodeli, ukuthi ngilawule imidiya kanye nokuzethula kwami. Njengoba nginabalandeli abayizigidi ezingu-14, ngicabanga ngokucophelela ngalokho engikushoyo nokuthi yini ngempela engiyimele.
Ngiqaphele ukuthi uJean Paul Gaultier wabhala incwadi eya phambili. Uphinde wahamba nombukiso wakhe wokugcina osekulungele ukugqokwa. Ucabangani ngokushiya kwakhe eselungele ukugqokwa?
UJean Paul Gaultier ungumngani wami othandekayo futhi imibukiso yakhe ibe yizinto ezivelele kakhulu zomsebenzi wami. Ngiyaziqonda izizathu zakhe zokushiya i-RTW futhi ngicabanga ukuthi kuningi okufanele sikubheke ngabomvu ngemidlalo yakhe ye-couture. Uma ngikhuluma iqiniso, angazi ukuthi wayenza kanjani imibukiso yemfashini eyi-6 ngonyaka isikhathi eside kangaka. Lokho kuyijubane lokuhlanya okufanele uhambisane nalo. Manje unemibukiso emi-2 ngonyaka futhi izoba yizibuko ezimangalisayo. Angikwazi ukulinda ukubona ukuthi wenzani ngokulandelayo.
Isiphi iseluleko ongasinikeza amantombazane nabafana abafisa ukuba amamodeli?
Ngicabanga ukuthi imodeli enhle kufanele ibe yingcweti futhi izimisele ukusebenza kanzima. Amantombazane amaningi acabanga ukuthi ukumodela yindlela yokuphila, hhayi umsebenzi. Imodeli enhle kufanele iwazi ama-engeli akhe, ukukhanya kwayo, futhi ibe khona ukuze ikhuthaze umthwebuli wezithombe. Kanjalo okubalulekile kufanele futhi uzazi ukuthi ungubani nokuthi ayini amanani akhe. Ingcindezi ingafakwa kumodeli ukuze ixegise kodwa ngithola ubuqotho buvame ukuvuzwa. Ngesikhathi esifanayo imodeli nayo idinga ukuba nesikhumba esiwugqinsi ngoba isiko lanamuhla nakanjani lingokugxekayo. Lapho ezwa ukuthi, "Ukhuluphele kakhulu" noma "ubhince kakhulu" ekulingiseni nasezinkundleni zokuxhumana, imodeli kufanele izame ukungazithatheli yona - nakuba, uma ucabanga ngakho, kungokomuntu siqu ngempela.
Ukube ubungeyena imodeli, bekungaba yini indlela oyikhethayo emsebenzini futhi ngani?
Ngahlolwa emqhudelwaneni womdanso wase-Ireland ngineminyaka engu-14 ngakho ukube angizange ngibe yimodeli mhlawumbe ngabe ngiye ngaba umqeqeshi womdanso. Bengilokhu ngiwuthanda umdanso futhi ngisho ngineminyaka engu-14 bengifundisa amantombazane amancane ekilasini lami.