Uma kukhulunywa ngezwe lokumodela, ukuhlukahluka kuye kwavela kude eminyakeni embalwa edlule. Kusukela ekufakeni amamodeli ombala kuye kosayizi abaningi noma amamodeli angewona kanambambili, kukhona ukuqhubeka kweqiniso. Nokho-ke iseyinde indlela okufanele ihanjwe uma kuziwa ekwenzeni ukumodela kube inkundla yokudlala. Phakathi nesizini ye-runway yekwindla ka-2017, u-27.9% wamamodeli wendlela yezindiza bekungamamodeli ombala, ngokombiko wokuhlukahluka kwe-Fashion Spot. Kube ukuthuthuka ngo-2.5% uma kuqhathaniswa nesizini edlule.
Futhi kungani ukuhlukahluka ekumodeleni kubaluleke kangaka? Izinga elibekwe imboni lingaba nomthelela omubi emantombazaneni asemancane asebenza njengamamodeli. Njengomsunguli weModel Alliance, USara Ziff uthi mayelana nenhlolovo yokumodela yango-2017, “Ngaphezu kwamaphesenti angu-62 [amamodeli okwaxoxwa ngawo] abike ukuthi acelwe ukuba ehlise isisindo noma ashintshe ukuma noma usayizi wawo yi-ejensi yawo noma omunye umuntu embonini.” Ushintsho ekubukeni kwesithombe somzimba lungasiza ukwenza imboni ibe ngcono kumamodeli kanye namantombazane athatheka kalula abuka izithombe.
Amamodeli Amnyama Nokuhlukahluka
Ingxenye eyodwa yokumodela ethuthukile ukubunjwa kwamamodeli ombala. Uma kukhulunywa ngamamodeli amnyama, kunezinkanyezi ezimbalwa ezikhuphukayo. Amagama afana Imaan Hammam, U-Linesy Montero futhi Adwoa Aboah zigqame kakhulu kumasizini akamuva. Kodwa-ke, umuntu angaqaphela ukuthi eziningi zalezi zibonelo zilula ngebala lesikhumba. Nakuba ukusebenzisa amamodeli amaningi ombala kufanele kunconywe, iqiniso lihlala liwukuthi abesifazane abamnyama bafika ezinhlobonhlobo zesikhumba.
Kungase futhi kube nenkinga ye-tokenism embonini. Njengoba umqondisi wokulingisa ongaziwa etshele i-Glossy ngo-2017, iqala ngenani lamamodeli ombala atholakalayo. “Isibonelo, amanye ama-ejensi amodelayo anezinhlanga ezimbalwa kuphela ekuqaleni, futhi imibukiso yawo yeviki lemfashini yamaphakheji angase abe nokuncane nakakhulu. Ngokuvamile zihlanganisa, njengamantombazane amabili kuya kwamathathu aseMelika, eyodwa yase-Asia kanye namamodeli angama-20 noma ngaphezulu aseCaucasus.”
Chanel Iman waphinde watshela iThe Times ngo-2013 mayelana nokubhekana nokuphathwa okufanayo. “Ezikhathini ezimbalwa ngangithethelelwa abaklami ababengitshela ukuthi, ‘Sesiyitholile kakade intombazane eyodwa emnyama. Asisakudingi.’ Ngazizwa ngidangele kakhulu.”
Ukukhuphuka kwamamodeli ase-Asia
Njengoba i-China isibe umdlali omkhulu emnothweni womhlaba, ekuqaleni ubone ukwanda kwamamodeli ase-East Asia. Kusukela 2008 kuya 2011, onobuhle ezifana Liu Wen, Ming Xi futhi Sui He kwanda kakhulu embonini. Amantombazane athole imikhankaso emikhulu kanye namakhava omagazini bemfashini abaphambili. Kodwa-ke, njengoba iminyaka iqhubeka, lokho kucindezela ukubona ubuso abaningi base-Asia ngemfashini kubonakala kuncipha.
Ezimakethe eziningi zase-Asia, amamodeli ahlanganisa omagazini noma avela emikhankasweni yokukhangisa amaCaucasian. Ngaphezu kwalokho, imikhiqizo yokuhlanza ibuye idume ezindaweni ezifana ne-China, India ne-Japan. Izimpande zesifiso sesikhumba esihle zingaboshelwa ngisho nasezikhathini zasendulo kanye nesistimu yekilasi egxilile. Noma kunjalo, kukhona okukhathazayo mayelana nomqondo wokusebenzisa amakhemikhali ukushintsha ithoni yesikhumba somuntu ngo-2017.
Futhi amamodeli aseNingizimu Asia anebala elimnyama noma izici ezinkulu cishe awekho embonini. Eqinisweni, ngenkathi iVogue India yethula ikhava yayo yeminyaka eyi-10 edlala indima enkulu Kendall Jenner , abafundi abaningi bathathe izinkundla zokuxhumana ukuzwakalisa ukudumala kwabo. Omunye owaphawula ku-Instagram walo magazini wabhala: “Leli bekuyithuba lokugubha ngempela amagugu namasiko amaNdiya. Ukubonisa abantu baseNdiya. Ngithemba ukuthi uzokwenza izinqumo ezingcono ngokuqhubekela phambili, ukuze ube ugqozi kubantu baseNdiya. "
Amamodeli weCurvy & Plus-Size
Ngomagazini wayo kaJuni 2011, iVogue Italia yethula udaba lwayo olufushane olunamamodeli anosayizi ongeziwe kuphela. Amantombazane ekhava ahlanganisa UTara Lynn, Candice Huffine futhi Robyn Lawley . Lokhu kwaphawula ukuqala kwamamodeli ama-curvy athatha izintambo embonini yezemfashini. Nakuba inqubekelaphambili ibihamba kancane, sibone u-Ashley Graham ethola ikhava yango-2016 ye-Sports Illustrated: Swimsuit Issue, emaka imodeli yokuqala yosayizi ongeziwe ukuze athande ukushicilelwa. Ukufakwa kwamamodeli ama-curvy afana no-Graham, u-Barbie Ferreira, u-Iskra Lawrence nabanye kwengeza umnyakazo wakamuva wokuphila komzimba.
Kodwa-ke, ukumodela kosayizi ongaphezulu kusenenkinga ngokuhlukahluka. Amamodeli amnyama, aseLatina nawase-Asia ashoda kakhulu ekulandiseni okujwayelekile. Enye indaba okufanele ibhekwe ukuhlukahluka komzimba. Iningi lamamodeli anosayizi omkhulu anomumo wengilazi yehora futhi alinganiswe kahle. Njengethoni yesikhumba, imizimba iza ngezinhlobonhlobo futhi. Amamodeli anomumo we-apula noma ama-stretch marks ngokuvamile awasayinwa noma afakwe njengokugqamayo. Ukwengeza, kukhona futhi umbuzo wokulebula amamodeli we-curvy kanjalo.
Isibonelo, ngo-2010, Myla Dalbesio yavezwa njengemodeli emkhankasweni wezingubo zangaphansi zikaCalvin Klein. Kusayizi 10 US, abantu abaningi baveze ukuthi empeleni wayengeyena usayizi omkhulu. Ngokwesiko, amabhrendi emfashini alebula izingubo ezinosayizi omkhulu njengosayizi 14 nangaphezulu. Ngesikhathi sokumodela, leli gama lihlanganisa usayizi 8 nangaphezulu.
Ngalowo mehluko odidayo, mhlawumbe yingakho amamodeli we-curvier ethanda Robyn Lawley cela imboni ukuthi ilahle ilebula yobukhulu obungeziwe. "Ngokwami, ngiyalizonda igama elithi 'plus-size'," kusho u-Lawley engxoxweni ka-2014 ne-Cosmopolitan Australia. "Kuyahlekisa futhi kuyahlambalaza - kubeka abesifazane phansi futhi kubafake nelebula."
Amamodeli we-Transgender
Eminyakeni yamuva, amamodeli we-transgender afana UHari Nef futhi U-Andreja Pejic baye bafinyelela esigcawini. Bathole imikhankaso yemikhiqizo efana neGucci, Makeup Forever noKenneth Cole. Imodeli yaseBrazil uLea T. wasebenza njengobuso bukaGivenchy ngesikhathi sikaRiccardo Tisci kulo mkhiqizo. Ngokuphawulekayo nokho, amamodeli ombala we-transgender awatholakali kakhulu uma kukhulunywa ngemikhiqizo yemfashini ejwayelekile.
Siphinde sabona amamodeli ashintsha ubulili ehamba ngeFashion Week. UMarc Jacobs uveze amamodeli amathathu ashintsha ubulili embukisweni wakhe wasekwindla-ebusika ka-2017 phakathi neviki lemfashini laseNew York. Nokho, njengoba uprofesa Columbia UJack Halberstam uthi mayelana nokuthambekela kwamuva esihlokweni se-New York Times, “Kuyajabulisa ukuthi kunezidumbu ezibonakalayo emhlabeni, kodwa umuntu kufanele aqaphe ukuthi kusho ukuthini ngale kwalokho nangokukhuluma ngezombangazwe. Konke ukubonakala akuholeli endleleni eqhubekayo. Kwesinye isikhathi kubonakala nje.”
Ithemba Ngekusasa
Uma sibhekisisa imboni yokumodela nokuhlukahlukana, kufanele futhi sincome labo abasebhizinisini abalithola kahle. Kusukela kubahleli bamamagazini kuya kubaklami, kunamagama amaningi aphawulekayo afuna ukusunduza ukuhlukahluka okwengeziwe. Umqondisi wokusakaza James Scully ungene ku-Instagram ngoMashi ukusola uhlobo lwaseFrance uLanvin ngokucela “ukungavezwa abesifazane bemibala”. U-Scully ubuye waveza enkulumweni yakhe neBusiness of Fashion ngo-2016 ukuthi umthwebuli wezithombe wenqaba ukuthwebula umlingisi ngoba engumuntu omnyama.
Abaklami abanjengo UChristian Siriano futhi U-Olivier Rousteing yase-Balmain ivamise ukwenza amamodeli emibala emibukisweni yabo yemigwaqo noma imikhankaso. Futhi omagazini abanjengoTeen Vogue nabo bamukela izinhlobonhlobo ezihlukahlukene zamamodeli nezihlabani zekhava. Singakwazi futhi amamodeli wekhredithi afana Jourdan Dunn abakhuluma ngokumelene namava okucwasa embonini. UDunn waveza ngo-2013 ukuthi umdwebi wezimonyo omhlophe wayengafuni ukumthinta ebusweni ngenxa yebala lakhe lesikhumba.
Singaphinde sibheke ezinye izikhungo ezifana ne-Slay Models (emele amamodeli ashintsha ubulili) kanye ne-Anti-Agency (esayina amamodeli angewona wendabuko) ukuze uthole izinketho eziningi ezahlukahlukene. Into eyodwa icacile. Ukuze ukuhlukahluka kokumodela kube ngcono, abantu kufanele baqhubeke nokukhuluma futhi bazimisele ukuthatha amashansi.